Mopar Cold Air Intake

[Cal Cruzer]

quote:Originally posted by DaytonaGTS

Just FYI....

CAI are cool, but do nothing for a Intercooled turbo car

When all that air gets compressed it gets super heated, 10 degree difference before the turbo is going to make no difference after the intercooled.

Me and my buds have tried everything possible with the intake on my SRT, and nothing gave any better performance over stock. So 280 HP and 300 Tourqe, I'm running my stock box.

Most aftermarket supercharger maufacturers would disagree with you as far as getting the coolest air possible at the intake. Granted, the stock unit is not going to draw as much underhood air, but in a comparison of aftermarket intakes that pass more air than stock, I would take a unit that does not ingest hot underhood temps over an open cone any day. I think it has been shown on a dyno here that a more free flowing intake tract will make nore HP on our cars.

[DaytonaGTS]

quote:Originally posted by Mean Green

Got a K&N drop in filter in the factory box? YEP, sure do

[ptgtcb]

The stock air box will flow more than enough air than our engine will ever need, especially with a high flow filter and the turbo to air box pipe opened up either with adam's or jim's pipe. You could go to 300 HP and possibly more with our stock box. Like DatonaGTS said your not going to realize any temp change after the IC. Just the heat absorbed by the manifold is going to heat the air charge more than anything so even if the CAI cooled the air charge,which it wont, it would never make it past the mainfold. Another dead horse tale.

I feel if you want a cooler charge then you should ceramic coat the top and bottom sections of the manifold, buy either Adam's or Jim's UPP pipe and ceramic coat it and then you should actually see a cooler air charge at the cumbustion chamber and only due to the IC. Which brings up the point about a larger IC...........
Just my 2 cents

[Cal Cruzer]

quote:Originally posted by ptgtcb

The stock air box will flow more than enough air than our engine will ever need, especially with a high flow filter and the turbo to air box pipe opened up either with adam's or jim's pipe. You could go to 300 HP and possibly more with our stock box. Like DatonaGTS said your not going to realize any temp change after the IC. Just the heat absorbed by the manifold is going to heat the air charge more than anything so even if the CAI cooled the air charge,which it wont, it would never make it past the mainfold. Another dead horse tale.

I feel if you want a cooler charge then you should ceramic coat the top and bottom sections of the manifold, buy either Adam's or Jim's UPP pipe and ceramic coat it and then you should actually see a cooler air charge at the cumbustion chamber and only due to the IC. Which brings up the point about a larger IC...........
Just my 2 cents

I am sorry, but you are just wrong. If you start with cooler air going in you end up with cooler charge coming out. With underhood temps running well over 120 degrees ( the limit of my temp sensor) and using an open cone, your will end up with higher charge temps than getting cool air into the initial charge. It does not just all equal out. My intake temp usually runs about 80 degrees using the Airaid and plumbing fresh air from the front dam to the air box. That is a minimum of a 50 degree difference in intake temp. The hotter the air going in, the hotter it will be coming out. You will have to change the thinking of every Pro 5.0 racer out there that runs fresh air dicrectly to their turbo these days that taking underhood air would not make any differnece. And thay run huge intercoolers.

[SteelBlueGT]

Here is just some common sense. It should be agreed that cooler air is better for performance and iIF you can cool the incomming air by 50 degrees it has to make some difference! How much is much harder to prove since dyno numbers don't adequateley model heat soaking or effects of ram air for that matter. I know from dyno numbers that my K&N which gets air just like the stock air box gives me another 10 to 12 hp over the stock box. I know that modifying the stock box gave me only about 2 hp. Dyno numbers from K&N! K&N says that by blocking heat from the open cone they get another 2 hp on the dyno. Not much!!
So far I have not heard anyone claim that the CAI tubing is so long that it costs power at slower speeds on cool days. Therefore I would tend to go with a homemade CAI system hooked up to an open cone in conjuction with a nice solid straight pipe right to the engine. I also agee that solid upper and lower charge pipes got to be better but I still dont know at what power levels the stock charge pipes fail to be efficient. If they fail to be efficient at say 20 psi then why should I worry about that? Same question for the exhaust down pipe and what size is that a bottleneck? I will not ever exceed 300 hp at the flywheel so I just need to find each bottleneck that can't support that HP rating.[8)]

[bluebluegt]

Hi, just to let you know i agree that the cooler the air in the cooler out, I have Jim's AMX turbo to air box pipe and was running about 15.20 stock, added the duct from the fog light to the air box inlet and went to 14.97. a buddy and I tried this on two different turbo pt's both 2003, and his ran 15.00 and then 14.98. we are sure the cooler the air in is better. now I have the S1, and exhaust, boost controller set at 18 and now running 14.45, the best out of 4 runs 14.69 was the slowest. This next week I will change exhaust and up the boost by 1or 2 lbs and see what happens. lowell

[eliminator]

My .02: The STOCK airbox is a cold air intake. It's drawing "cold" air from in the fender. An open cone like the one shown above is really a hot air intake, since it's pulling hotter air from the engine compartment.

Steelblue: Does the K&N kit you mentioned replace the stock *PIPE* from the turbo to the stock airbox, like the one in the picture? If so, that's the reason for the power gain. The stock airbox to turbo pipe is a major restriction. Replacing it with aftermarket will produce decent power gains, even with the stock airbox. I don't think the stock airbox is a restiction at all.

[eliminator]

Here it is:

http://207.150.192.12/temp/cordycha/cruiser/14.htm

Replacing the pipes is worth about 30 wheel HP. It looks like the car was dyno'd with an open cone, but it doesn't say if they dyno'd the stock airbox. I would *guess* that the stock airbox is within a few HP of the open cone.

[DaytonaGTS]

quote:Originally posted by eliminator


Here it is:

http://207.150.192.12/temp/cordycha/cruiser/14.htm

Replacing the pipes is worth about 30 wheel HP. It looks like the car was dyno'd with an open cone, but it doesn't say if they dyno'd the stock airbox. I would *guess* that the stock airbox is within a few HP of the open cone.

HMMMM this is a bit hard to swallow, 30HP increase just by changing the hot and cold charge pipes. ????????????

I may not post on this site alot, but I am not new to Turbos and what increases HP dramaticly, and changing out charge pipes is not one of them

Daytona

[SuGamer]

Just ask Mike-in-orange. The factory upcharge "pipe" is rubber so it expands. Plus it has a silencer inside of it, restricting the flow to only about 1 1/2" at a certain point. It's like you trying to breathe through a straw. The new pipe is not restrictive, thus your engine and turbo will produce the power it WAS MEANT to have in the first place! [8)]The website is: http://www.prototypepower.com/