Pillar Pod and Gauges installed

[PT4U2C]

thanks Mean Green. I got the same pod from Maggie. I've decided to paint it to match my DC2 grey. How much time should I allow to run wires/lines, boost/voltmeter, power through firewall and connect? any tips?

thank you,

PT4U2C

[SteelBlueGT]

I like it I like it a lot!![^]

[Mean Green]

quote:Originally posted by PT4U2C

thanks Mean Green. I got the same pod from Maggie. I've decided to paint it to match my DC2 grey. How much time should I allow to run wires/lines, boost/voltmeter, power through firewall and connect? any tips?

thank you,

PT4U2C

You run wires through grommet where hood latch goes through the firewall. Use a straight piece of a metal hanger and tape wires and boost tubing to straight piece (one at a time). The panel below the steering wheel comes off. Pull at the top and the bottom is like a slot hinge so the whole panel will come off. Pop the door off of the fuse block, unscrew the fuse block and you can move the fuse block around and out of the way for better access.....Start at the top of the oem pillar post cover and pull off. Be careful, one of my clips bent and I had to remove the cover carefully and then bend the clip back into shape when I got the cover off.....The orange wire in the harness is for illumination and works with your dimmer switch for the lights on the gauge face. The yellow wire is for 12 volt power......You will drill four 5/32" holes for the ribbed push pins to attach the pillar pod to the oem piece. I used small C clamps to hold the two pieces together. If I had to over to do again I would have drilled the hole for the top right in the curved piece of the pillar pod to make the pillar pod comform to the oem piece. I drilled a 1" hole in the oem piece to run the wires through. You may need extra wire to splice on to the wires for the gauges especially for the ground as that will be a ways down to under the dash. We attached the ground wires together and used a ring connector for the ground. To run longer wires we used a connector that will tap into the factory wire (without cutting it in two) and the wire you are adding when you fold a piece of plastic over and squeeze the connector shut. This is probably a bad discription but I've used them for years with 12 volt wires and forget the name of them. They do sell them in an auto parts store.....For the boost tubing you will need a metal (not plastic, it could melt) tee that's 3/8" x 3/8" with a 1/4" leg. You will also need a rubber fitting that is for the 1/8" boost tubing to 1/4" leg and you splice into the vaccuum line that runs to the back of the manifold. Just take the tubing to the auto parts store and tell them you want the tubing to connect to the tee. That way you will be sure it's right.....Make sure eveything is working before you push the gauges into the pod.....If Deen and I had this to do again, with what we know now, I know we could knock it out in 2+ hours. If I did it by myself probably 3 to 4 hours. Might take you less. We had to put my GT up on jackstands because we had to drill a 1/4" hole in the exhaust for the EGT probe. Just take your time, have fun and do it right. You will enjoy the end results.....Hope this helps you.

[PT4U2C]

MeanGreen:

Thank you very much for your outstanding instructions. I appreciate your taking time to reply. I'll respond when I'm done and let you know how it went.

All the Best,

PT4U2C

[OurPTGT]

MG, where'd you mount your EGT probe? Did ya weld in a bung hole? [B)]
Thanks,
KB

[Mean Green]

quote:Originally posted by OurPTGT

MG, where'd you mount your EGT probe? Did ya weld in a bung hole? [B)]
Thanks,
KB

That's a good question. You're supposed to mount it 1-2" from the turbo but Deen and I found that to be impossible with the o2 housing being there and it being cast iron. So we drilled a 1/4" hole and mounted it just after the o2 housing. We were a little leery of condensation messing with the probe but the pipe is at an angle and there should be no problem.....I got the probe that came with a clamp so the probe is clamped to the pipe. If you got the gauge kit that came with the probe then I think you are going to have to weld it on. The clamping of the probe was a piece of cake and took a couple of minutes. It was good to have two pairs of hands because the clamp just fits and Deen held it in place while I got the clamp started and secured it. The pyrometer is working well. On the freeway at 70 mph it reads around 1230 degrees.