Oil recommendation

[alphaproject]

After searching on other threads, there is one oil that seems to peak the interest of turbo and non turbo users alike.

http://www.amsoil.com/

The use of this oil can last further than the oil filter and seems like this could be the best of the best. Check out the site.

I have a Stealth and this is going to be my next oil.

[chasgood_in_okc]

A 25,000 mile oil seems to good to be true. If you read enough at the site it says 3 times the owners manual oil change interval for turbocharged cars. That is 9,000 to 15,000 miles on a GT. To be safe with your waranty 5,000 miles is all you can go. Amsoil can be hard to find. Mobil 1 is everywhere. Amsoil costs more than Mobil 1 ($4.09 at Wal-mart).
I just did my second oil change today at 4,000 miles and put in Mobil 1. The engine seems quieter and smoother.

Check the forums here for good oil info. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[Doo Wop]

I've got a buddy who races stockcars and swears by Pennsoil. He says no matter how hard he runs them or how hot they get, the oil pressure is always still there at the end of the day. He just swears by it. Anybody try it? I've only got 300 miles on my new red inferno turbo and want the best for it, any suggestions on when to change it the first time to synthetic oil?

[Gary04GT]

From what I've read most people seem to be switching to synthetic oil between 3000 to 6000 miles. I guess one needs to be careful not to put synthetic in "too early" before all engine parts have had the chance to "get seated" using regular oil. I plan to put Mobil 1 in my GT after 5000 miles.

See my "Red ROAD ROCKET" at: Gary's GT Turbo



Edited by - Gary03GT on 04/02/2003 08:44:34

[Grouch]

Take it from a retired Chrysler service manager that if you go 15,000 miles between oil changes and blow your engine you WILL have warranty problems and you can take that to the bank. Follow the owners manual at least for oil changes because you have to keep records. Personally I have changed my oil and filter every 3000 miles for over 20 years on all my vehicles and have put hundreds of thousands of miles on them and have never had any engine problems I have never used a synthetic even though at one time it was offered to me for free (wanted me to sell it in the shop ) but if you change your oil every 3000 miles IMHO you don't need a synthetic. One thing I can tell you with 100% certainty is don't use these oils in anything but your engine. If you do you will be eating whatever fails. The reason is it doesn't meet the factory specs

[Steve03GT]

I use Royal Purple; a friend of mine sold it years ago and after seeing the ball bearing test, I was sold on it.
link:http://www.royalpurple.com/aboutrp/whyrp.shtml

The maintenance dept. in the industrial plant where I worked used all RP products for lubrication of the various rotating equipment after researching the competitors.

'03 GT Cruiser,White w/ Auto Stick
'02 Corvette (555netHP)
Member of 11sec. club &
NRA Patron Member

[Sci-Fi]

Just FYI:
The majority of the people I know that own turbos, regardless of make or model, switch to synthetic oil as soon as they get home from the dealers (if the car was not factory filled with a synthetic oil, like Mobil 1). This is to prevent possible coking in the turbo bearings and seals from regular dino oil, not to mention your rings too. IMHO, to say you need to "break-in" an engine with dino oil before switching doesn't make sense, if cars are coming from the factory filled with a synthetic oil. Would one dump the synthetic oil and put regular oil in it for break-in purposes? The brand of oil you use is up to you. Regular oil and filter changes should follow the manufactorers recommendations to keep your warranty intact. If you want to do an oil analysis and just change filters to stretch your synthetic oil investment, you may find it may be cheaper just to change the oil and filter (Amsoil charges $25). Some dislike the hydrocracked group III oils and prefer only PAO based (group IV) oils like Mobil 1 or the more expensive Amsoil (their higher end products). The latest preference, even at bobtheoilguy site, is ester based synthetic oils like Motul 8100 Ester E-Tech 0W-40 or the available only outside of the states Mobil 1 0w-40, etc. Any of the "Synthetic" oils do have a superior additive package which will help keep your engine clean. I have used/switched immediately to synthetic oils in all my cars since the 80's and have not experienced any problems and the inside of the engine still looks like new with no/minimal deposits and runs great.

2002 Almond Pearl Limited Edition 27K
It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice.
http://sci-fi.ptenthusiasts.net/

[flashbk2]

I ran my factory oil for 2100 miles and have changed to mobil 1 5-30w and k&n filter which all will get changed @3,000 mile intervals.

'03 Electric Blue 5 speed GT, bassani axle back single exhaust,addco oversize front,rear sways,wildfire strut bar,color-matched rear muds,xenon sides,mirrors,b&c pillars,both interior consoles

[kgdptblue]

A question, does the engine need to be flushed before synth is added? or will it eventually flush out the old fossil oil on it's own? Will the service dept. perform oil changes if I provide the syth oil and filter? I don't really have the facilities do it my self...

Thanks!


03' Electric Blue GT Many mods check under Bio for details.

[SteelBlueGT]

No need to flush if engine is reasonably clean and low mileage. Each dealer is different my dealer does not push synthetic but will do it for a price! Remember it comes in each and every Viper so it is hard for dealer to say it is junk!

03 GT, Beltline Pinstripe, K&N Drop In Filter, Interior Filter, Locking Gas Cap, Racing Pedals, Hood Struts,Presto Change O 3bl, Cargo Mat, Billet Oil Cap, Chrome Valve Caps, Shorty Antenna, Front bumper Inserts, Dual Horns, and Rear Splash Guards.