Hyperground

[PTGT Redman]

Ian,
So you start on the fenderwall, then chain them all in run going through the neg batt cable, to manifold and so forth?
I have that red 4 or 8g cable i used for my sound system (the same red cable you have in your car). Can I use this if i get gold plated connectors?

[Ian-PT-GT]

quote:Originally posted by PTGT Redman

Ian,
So you start on the fenderwall, then chain them all in run going through the neg batt cable, to manifold and so forth?
I have that red 4 or 8g cable i used for my sound system (the same red cable you have in your car). Can I use this if i get gold plated connectors?

Yes, I started on the fenderwall. I also left the other two grounds that are factory installed. One goes to the fender and the other goes to the starter area (I think). I added this ground to the other bolt because that is where all the sensor grounds are connected.

I replaced the engine head cable on the pasenger side strut because it is crap! This cable, (to me), looks like it should bee one of the most inportant grounds because it connects directly to the engine head.The same place where the spark plugs are looking for ground.

In the cable department, the cables I used a cable that has about six bunches of manny thin wires woven together. I guess as long as you don't use solid coper wires, It should work nicely.

Ian

[GR8FLPT]

Nice post! I have been waiting for the pics before I try it on mine.
Should work on ALL PT's not just the GT.

Nice work![8)]

BTW, do you think you left any components out that should have been grounded also? Also, the reason for the braided ground wire from the battery is it helps reduce noise in the system. The size of the cable is the minimum that the engineers figure that they can get away with for production. Then hey figure cost saving over how many 1000 cars they build.

[GR8FLPT]

Gold plated connectors will not make that much difference in an engine compartment, Reason being that the under hood temps, combined with all the gasses, corrosive fluids, road salts, etc. will cuase the plating to corrode or peel. Even the best quality gold plated conectors will do this.
If your car is not a daily driver, then you will have a chance. One way to slow the process down is to use dielectric grease over the connection point.
Living here in Minnesota, I see it all the time. A cheap alternative is vasoline on the battery terminals. It does work.

[Ian-PT-GT]

quote:Originally posted by GR8FLPT

Gold plated connectors will not make that much difference in an engine compartment, Reason being that the under hood temps, combined with all the gasses, corrosive fluids, road salts, etc. will cuase the plating to corrode or peel. Even the best quality gold plated conectors will do this.
If your car is not a daily driver, then you will have a chance. One way to slow the process down is to use dielectric grease over the connection point.
Living here in Minnesota, I see it all the time. A cheap alternative is vasoline on the battery terminals. It does work.

That is a good Idea.

I left it out of my posts, I used Dielectric grease in all my connectors. But I did it not for the corosion, I did it because of the diferent metals. I don't want to corrode the aluminum...

Ian

[2step]

Ian-PT-GT......You've got the right wire, no doubt. I really appreciate all the good info you, Mean Green and others share with us all. I do a lot more reading than posting trying to absorb it all.
I think the word chain in the phrase "daisy chain" may have confused us. The word daisy as in "many petals" may be a better take. Go to http://www.pivotusa.com/installationman/pivvs_1_E.pdf On the second page it does show 2 end to end cable runs but most are direct, single cables. (Print this out for your file.) Note the caution to use the shortest path possible. End to end doesn't acomplish this. Go to http://www.hksusa.com/images/?id=1523&rsku=0 This bouquet of cables illustrates their intent big time.
Just replacing that head to passenger fender cable isn't enough. You still running your head ground from head to fender, all the way through the steel body, to another cable, to the battery terminal. Keep your fender to head but add a head to battery.
Another brainstorm I had: I think the PCM deserves its own cable but how about linking from there through to the inside of the firewall. Those expensive E-boost controls and audio equipment could benefit from a nice clean place to ground, too.
I'm so pumped about doing this on my car, I'm going to do the wife's car, too. Hope I didn't come off like a know-it-all, just trying to share. Maybe we can teach those SRT4 people something for a change.

[2step]

Do some searches on:

sun automobile hyper ground
pivot super earth
hks circle earth
a'pexi super ground

lots of info on prices and colors, etc.[8D]

[Mean Green]

Seems like we have two different ways to do this. The end to end (Sun Automotive) and the run each wire from the negative clamp (Circle Earth). I thought about getting a longer battery clamp bolt and doing each individual wire from the clamp but didn't want a mess of wires attached to one bolt so I did it the Sun Automotive way. Is someone going to come up with a way to run all five wires from the clamp and make it look like the circle earth? Will be interesting if there is a difference between the two, one better than the other or if both are the same.

[2step]

Sorry, Mean Green if I clouded up the waters a bit. I really think the way you have your ground cables now, will give you almost all there is to get. The rest is just incremental improvements. I looked back at the other thread and re-read the Car Audio Mag install piece and my feeling is that they just made up their own way to install the cables. I would bet money that Sun Automobile's instructions don't recommend much end to end cable runs. That adds length and splices. In a few days, I hope to have a copy of their instructions.
You're right about the ugly birds nest of cables all converging on the negative battry terminal. I was thinking something like the ground terminal piece on the Pivot kit but longer and with a 90 degree bend down the side of the battery, mostly out of sight. Should be easy to fab one from copper stock. Possible corrosion problems if not plated somehow. I've seen remote battery posts before, but that would add another cable.
The good news is that in all the research I've done, I haven't seen any bad reviews no matter how the stuff was installed. Of course some cars got better results than others what with dyno variations, install variations or how dirty the original ground path. Thanks for listening to my 2 cents.

[littleblueGT]

[:I]It seems like over kill to me unless I'm missing something here.I just added 2 wires, both from the negative battery terminal,one to the head the other to the pcm. I did solder the wires to the eyelets, but that was it. The car seemed to idle better and pulled stronger to red line.I don't have a super sound system and I was just interested in performance inhancement.SRT's seemed to have the same results as I did. The Idea of using dielectric grease or other protective material was good, that's one reason I soldered the wire to the eyelet after crimping as the copper wire and eyelet will oxidize in time.I also have an antiseize compound that is conductive, which may also be a good alternative. It was for use around plating fixtures and contact points.