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Final manual boost controller installation

 
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Old 01 Apr 2003, 02:51 pm
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Location: San Juan, Puerto Rico, USA.
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Default Final manual boost controller installation

After test after test, after test, after test, I have finally found a nice installation procedure.
It will cost you less than 50 dollars not including the boost gauge.
The gauge with the Auto Meter pod $65.00
If you include the K&N filter, you will have a low 14, high 13 sec car for under $150.00

You will need a Hallman ES Boost controller kit = $45.00
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/applic.html

Other boost controllers could work but the Hallman is a piston type and not a bleed type like others. It works by completely blocking off all air and suddenly opening at the preset pressure, so you will have a faster response than with other models. Also you want to install it before the solenoid to take the advantage of the bleed valve on the bottom part of the solenoid (the connector with the little piece of gauze). This is used to exhaust the pressure on the line after the solenoid has closed and reset the wastegate. If you bypass it or you install it after the solenoid, the pressure won’t return to normal and the wastegate would remain open and no pressure will build after the first boost. This would happen with this particular controller. The “Turbonetics” that I used before had a check valve to address this issue. But it was too hard to precisely adjust it. I made an error and bought the one that adjusts up to 50 PSI, all you need is one that can go 10-PSI above stock.

The installation is extremely simple and easy to return back to stock.

First some research results.

1. The stock setting peaks at 14-PSI boost. That is good and enough because the head gasket can only take a sustained 15-PSI before it starts to leak, and the fuel system can only work up to 16-PSI of boost

2. The stock setting lowers the boost to 10 PSI or lower when accelerating. This is what we want to adjust.

After looking for a way that I can find a happy medium for this issue, here is my fix:

1. If you install a manual boost controller before the computer solenoid you can adjust the low-pressure setting of the turbo and the computer will still control your high-pressure setting, 14-PSI, of course this is if you keep your setting lower than the 14-PSI mark.

2. The solenoid works by opening the line and let more air pressure coming from the turbo exhaust to the Wastegate letting some pressure to escape and in turn lower the boost setting.

3. If you intercept the pressure before it reaches the solenoid you will control the lowest boost setting that you want. This is where you want to place the controller.

Installation

1. Locate the boost control solenoid. It is on the passenger side shock tower and marked with a number 2 on top of it

2. Remove the top vacuum line (Cream colored) from the solenoid. The rubber connector holds all three connections so you may need to pull all three out and re-insert the bottom two and leave the top one out.

3. Install a silicone tube to the solenoid top connector and push the stock one to the front of the car and next to the silicone tube.

4. Connect the factory tube connection (Cream colored one) to the Hallman boost controller intake port, the bottom connector.

5. Connect the silicone tube to the Boost controller exit port, side connector, and done.

Adjustment.

1. If you open it completely to the left you will lower boost pressure. The lowest that it will go is 5-PSI. This is the Wastegate spring setting. To increase pressure, just tighten the knob to the right. Do this in ¼ turns at a time and test. Remember that if you go higher than the 14-PSI mark, the computer cannot adjust it. It won’t create a code in the ECU but if you run it too high it can blow the head gasket. Take your time in this part and take baby steps. Don’t rush it or it can over boost and destroy the turbo or the engine.

2. You will always see the 14-PSI mark on your boost gauge but you will control the lowest setting that it will go when the engine is going to the high RPM range when the 10-PSI drop occurs. This will increase your top end horsepower.

If you are on the track, set
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Old 02 Apr 2003, 11:26 am
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Default

Ian, many thanks for sharing your R&D knowledge and the written instructions; hopefully, someone will offer to post the pics - I don't have a URL or I would. It's people like you that make a forum worthwhile.<img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>

'03 GT Cruiser,White w/ Auto Stick
'02 Corvette (555netHP)
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Old 02 Apr 2003, 12:31 pm
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Location: Huntington Beach, CA, USA.
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Good work Ian. I am not sure I understood all the instructions as I am still new to my car but I am thinking I would like to get it set up to level out the boost. However, I am sure that DC would frown in this mod in the even of a catastrophic failure

Inferno Red GT, chrome wheels, chrome AMP fuel door, chrome side spears, PT Cruiser 3rd light diffuser, silencers removed from airbox...ain't this car fun?!?!?
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Old 02 Apr 2003, 03:24 pm
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That’s the beauty of this mod.

You pull a vacuum tube out and connect the factory one and it is back to factory spec.

If you could see the pictures you will feel comfortable with this mod.

I must say also that if you over boost the engine. It would be very hard to cover the mess.

Ian


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Old 02 Apr 2003, 04:19 pm
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Ian if you can email a picture I can/will upload to imagestation and post it in thread for you. jeff aka flashbk2

'03 Electric Blue 5 speed GT, bassani axle back single exhaust,addco oversize front,rear sways,wildfire strut bar,color-matched rear muds,xenon sides,mirrors,b&c pillars,both interior consoles
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Old 03 Apr 2003, 12:16 pm
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Battle Creek, Mi, USA.
Posts: 228
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Ian

Great instructions. You are the man.
I should have been more clear when I told
you that I had installed my boost controller.
The weather here will warm up soon so
I can go have fun like you are, hope to run
mid to low 14's.


Culprat
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Old 03 Apr 2003, 02:44 pm
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I will be going to the track today!
I will test the adjustments, but like a pure racer that I am, I am already thinking of either get the Light weight bearing for my boost controller to make it faster and prevent spikes or start with the electronic boost controller world (My choice, Greddy Profec B).
The easy way is to buy the lightweight ball and keep using the Hallman Boost controller, which 7 sec cars are using. But after reading the reviews on this electronic gadget, my curiosity is killing me!

flashbk2,

I will send you the pictures tomorrow morning; they are a little big so if you can reduce them a little I will appreciate them.
Thanks,

Ian

Ian

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Old 03 Apr 2003, 02:48 pm
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Culprat,

I know that you had already installed it; you motivated me when I got frustrated on the first installation tests. When I saw that you did it then I knew there was a way! All I did was work with your idea.
Tanks


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Old 03 Apr 2003, 06:52 pm
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Location: Vestal, NY, USA.
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Ok Ian I'll do my best I'm new to the posting also but have some friends like Sci-Fi that help me out! I've ordered my controller. I've also ordered the filter to build a "ghetto intake" and hope to build a shield to help isolate the filter.

'03 Electric Blue 5 speed GT, bassani axle back single exhaust,addco oversize front,rear sways,wildfire strut bar,color-matched rear muds,xenon sides,mirrors,b&c pillars,both interior consoles

Edited by - flashbk2 on 04/03/2003 17:03:17
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Old 03 Apr 2003, 07:44 pm
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Location: Ontario, Canada.
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Ian, I would like to say thanks for supplying such good instructions on how to connect a manual boost controller. May I ask, do you have the adjustment knob inside the vehicle or inside the engine bay?

Thanks!!

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