Dont't Need Stage 2 Now...

[hyracer]

Installed the new AGP billet WGA and Greddy Profec EBC and the Cruiser is flying now. Boosting 15 lbs. to redline in the low setting and with the push of a button on the steering wheel the high boost settings spikes to 20 lbs. for a second, drops to 18 lbs until almost redline. Never seen 100 MPH come up so fast on the ol spedometer before! Will give more detail when I'm backhome from the holiday. Still have not installed the PPQ.

Time to start hunting some of the new Detroit iron coming out on the market!

Deen

[SuGamer]

Alright!!! [?] Hey, we want more details when you get back! And some track numbers! You gotta be in the 13's now![8)]

[scottscars]

Very cool.. did you do the install youreslf?? How many cuts on you hands working on WGA??? any pics?? Thanks!

[Culprat]

hyracer,

I feel the same as you after installing the AGP
wastegate from tommy,who needs Stage-2 this was just
as large a jump in out put as the Stage-1 was but
for less cash out lay.Boost on my friend.


Keith

[hyracer]

AHHHHHH, nice to be home again! Thanks to those who responded[8D]

Yes, I did the install, took me a few days because I wanted to do it right. I had the WGA off and on 3 times to get it to fit properly. At least on my car the WGA was rubbing the steel support plate that supports between the back of the block and the intake manifold. You'll need to mount the WGA, mark where it rubs the plate, then remove WGA and grind a crescent shaped relief in the support plate. You'll also need to relieve the heat-shield where the WGA arm touches...it's in the same area as the factory relief for the factory WGA-arm, just grind it back about 3/8 inch. If I had to do it all over again it would be MUCH easier to buy a new intake gasket and remove the intake to allow access to the heat shield. I did get the heat shield off the car with the manifold in place but it took alot of swearing and time and I had to remove most wires/hoses/throttle cables from the manifold to do it anyway.
As far as adjusting the WGA, I used anti-sieze on the WGA adjustment threads to keep the heat from siezing-up the adjusting rod over a period of time. Initial adjustment was one full turn past taking up the slack. After test-driving it I added one more full turn to bring the boost up to about 13.5 lbs. From there you will use an aftermarket MBC or EBC to adjust the boost to where you want it. BTW, purchase your AGP billet WGA from Tommy...he is the man[^]and the ONLY one you can get these from for now. THANKS TOMMY[?]

Greddy Profec B Spec II:
The hardest part about the install was figuring out where to place the controller and where to drill holes in the firewall. I ended up installing the controller in the pocket just below the radio although now I kind of wish I had installed in on the dash so I could see it better while programming or driving. I had placed it down below because I did not want it visible from outside the car incase someone wanted it more than I do[:0] I had also purchased the remote switch (both the main unit and remote came from Hector at Exhaust Depot)and installed that on the left side of the steering wheel so I can switch between Lo/High boost with my left hand while power-shifting with my right hand. Two hole need to be drilled in the firewall...one drilled right next to the hood release cable for the wiring to the controller solenoid and one close to the controller. You'll need to run a vacuum line from the controller to a vacuum source off the intake manifold, I Tee-d into the brake-booster line. On my 03 5-spd. there is a circular cut in the fire-wall sound-deadening insulation (cabin side of firewall)just to the right of the throttle cable. I drilled a hole dead-center there to run my vacuum line and a 1/2" hole on the drivers-side of the pocket under the radio. I mounted the selonoid off a factory L-bracket that already has a hole in it. The factory bracket appears to have no purpose on the stick-cars...it's just to the right and just above the fill-hole for the brake-fluid cap.
I do not have the initial settings nor the install instructions from Hector with me at the moment (they are in my shop). I'll report on those within the next day or two. Hector said to follow his install instructions and not to follow the instructions that come from Greddy!
More to come soon...

Deen

[GR8FLPT]

Sweet!!!

[hyracer]

O.K here is the rest of the install procedure for the Greddy Profec: To hook up the vacuum lines for the solenoid you need to find the two fittings coming off the compressor side of the turbo. Tee into the fitting closest to the firewall, this is equivalent to using the green-line on the SRT4. The other fitting is located on what I call the "nozzle" of the turbo discharge...if you Tee into that line you will get excessive BOV venting and will be equivalent to Teeing into the blue line on the SRT4. Anyway Teeing into the fitting closest to the firewall is what you want and you tie the other end into the solenoid marked "NO".
Now take off the vacuum-line going to your WGA, put a plug in the line, then run a line from your WGA to the solenoid fitting marked "COM". Make sure you remove all 3 caps (plugs) from the solenoid other wise it will not work properly. If you remember I already told you to run a vacuum-line from the back of your controller to the brake-booster vacuum line.
Next you just need to wire in the electrical to the controller. Just run the red wire to 12 volt positive and the black wire to a ground. I tied my red wire to a wire coming off the fuse panel and grounded the black wire to the metal framework under the dash.

Once you have your initial setting on your new WGA (12-14 lbs.)you can then dial in the Greddy Profec. I used settings suggested by Super Steve on the SRT4 forum. Just remember that all cars are different and it will also make a differance where you set your initial setting on the WGA. For me I just plugged in Super Steve's settings and my GT is running like a champ. I will do some more expermenting over time but the initial settings got me up and running with no problems:

Lo Boost (15lbs)

Set Boost 25%
Gain 20%
Set Gain 145 or in Kpa 1.00

Hi Boost (18 lbs.)

Set Boost 45%
Gain 23%
Set Gain 170 or 1.30 Kpa

Well, Happy Boosting all

Our race tracks are closed until mid-March/April so I can not report on my 1/4 improvements but my seat-O-pants meter says it's almost as big a jump as going from Stage 0 to Stage 1...can't hardly wait to see what the PPQ does[}]

Deen

[K9 Cruiser]

WTG Deen.The holidays set me back a bit.I will be installing almost the same set up except the remote switch.It is great to be able to see this in depth breakdown of install.I am as excited now before install as you sound after. Got 25 mpg on way back from Myrtle BCH yesterday with a few Heavy Metal Pedal passes.One I reached 110 mph quikly but was skeeeered my stock bad years would blow so I backed off.[B)]Can't wait to get started. Jay

[dfunkdj]

hyracer
Did you have to tye the profec B into the ellectrics fo the pcm ?? I have seen some of the EBC that need to read the shifts,RPM's,Spark trigger ,Etc dosent the Profec B need theese?

Don

I am thinking of a greddy Eo-1 so I can install e-manage system also

[hyracer]

quote:Originally posted by dfunkdj

hyracer
Did you have to tye the profec B into the ellectrics fo the pcm ?? I have seen some of the EBC that need to read the shifts,RPM's,Spark trigger ,Etc dosent the Profec B need theese?

Don

I am thinking of a greddy Eo-1 so I can install e-manage system also

No, the Greddy Profec B Spec II does not tie into the ECU (PCM). It's not tuning software. Basicly it's a electro-mechanical device (the solenoid) controlled by a electronic controller that varies the amount of bleed going to your WGA. An electronic boost controller (EBC) helps to smooth out the part-throttle boost (PTB) that you will see with a MBC (Manual Boost Controller).

I do have a Psi-Fi Power-Paq but have not installed it yet. It will do similar tuning as E-manage. The reason I choose the PPQ is because I'm not a tuner (yet). The PPQ comes with a loaded MAP already set up with the mods I have on my car, basically I just wire everything into place and drive the car. To fine tune the MAP I would need to plug in a laptop and tune it...but the MAP supplied is already tuned to probably 85-90% efficiency for my Cruiser. The E-manage and similar software have to be tuned by someone that have good tuning basics before you can use it. So your either have to pay a tuner to set it up
or your going to be experimenting with your Cruiser which could get ugly and expensive if you do not tune it right.
Anyone out there with better experiance in this can jump in any time because I'm definetly not an expert when it comes to the various software tuning devices...

Deen