cold air intake?

[bluebluegt]

air like water flows with ease in a larger pipe take 100 gal. per min through a 3" pipe that is gravaty force then take a pump (turbo and put that air into a 2.5 pipe and the pressure has to go up to keep the same vol. of air moving,, change to a 2 or 2.5 infulent (Intake) side and your pump (turbo ) has to work harder to get that vol of air in and work twice as much to build the same vol.. a test was done where the temp of the turbo with stock (don't remember the temps, but stock wa hot the amx intake was cooler and no intake just a screen over the mouth of the turbo was the lowest temp and more air (even though it was hot air ) got to the turbo. so the best system is a biger 3' is good intake system air box and amx intake or any body's 3' system that can get cooler air from the outside.. example whenwe drive our car in 15 degree weather and there is more power yet people in fl. start at 85 degrees the car in the cold weather always runs better, yet both have turbo with about 350 degrees so the colder air in lets turbo's temp the same but makes more hp

[SteelBlueGT]

Impressed with all your data and I dont have any at all to contradict yours. I will say that my GT which is sucking air right from lthe fender well hole runs about as strong in summer than winter. I wil try bigger smoother turbo pipes and see if that makes any difference. I can tell you the best MPG I can get is 24 mpg at 70 mph on the highway and I would love better. To me part of the Cruiser fun is experimenting and seeing what works real world and what does not work. So far all of my attempts at better mpg has netted me maybe 1-2 mpg!

[Mel K]

I agree with your physics lesson showing that the turbo will not work as hard with the larger pipes, so at 15 lbs. boost it is pumping more air through the system. My question though pertains to reaching that boost. It seems natural that in pumping air through a smaller system the pressure will rise faster than pumping through a larger system, by how much, I don't know, but if true would this produce greater turbo lag? No question that once the boost is reached the larger system will allow more air to pass through. It seems in my own experience, that the larger pipes producer better results at higher rpms which demonstrates that it may take a little longer to reach that 15 lbs boost, but once there, look out.

[ptgtcb]

[xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(] You [)] will never learn. Pull your heads out of your a$$ an listen to hyracer. I can't believe your rehashing this crap, crazy. Flame away, I don't care.
[]

[Mean Green]

quote:Originally posted by ptgtcb

[xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(][xx(] You [)] will never learn. Pull your heads out of your a$$ an listen to hyracer. I can't believe your rehashing this crap, crazy. Flame away, I don't care.
[]

I find it extremely funny that people are still debating this and claiming their expensive, useless CAI (HAI = hot air intake)is better.

[nitrouspt]

All the cold air intake manufactures claim 10 extra HP, 14 extra HP; mostly bull. Air intakes are mostly for looks, but may provide a little extra HP. Can't beat the $500 I spent on my NOS kit, put on top of my turbo for an extra 100 HP. Now that is amazing!

[Topless in Cali]

The reason this is rehashed is because there are lots of new PT owners joining up and they have questions. I know I did almost a year ago after spend $$$ and getting 0000. Thanks to everyone here, I have learned lots and got better results using it. The best air for turbos(or any car) is COLD air from OUTSIDE the car hitting the engine at the coolest possible temps. Cold air is denser than hot making more PSI with less work. Isn't that why we want bigger intercoolers?? Listen to the guys that know. Pipe air in from the front fog area, keep it cool using as much high heat plastic or heat shield it as much as possible. I wish someone would make the air box to turbo pipe and the uppercharge pipe in high heat plastic or ceramic coat these parts. Even DC engineers know this and thats why they switched to the plastic intake, saving money was also a nice side benne.

[ptgtcb]

Man, you guys still don't get it. If the newbies want to learn then they should hit search and the archives!

If you run an open element in the engine compartment then you will increase the air temp to the engine, no good, but the intercooler will work to bring the temp down. Show me the test where the the air charge temp is the same when entering the turbo and when it enters the intake, show me!

If you run a tube down to the brake duct then you may well introduce some cooler air into the turbo. Unfortunately, the turbo will heat up this cooler air and all your great mods are for not. If the turbo does not heat this so called colder and denser air the long tube that runs from the turbo to the inter-cooler will, the one that runs right next to the HOT oil pan. The reason we have an inter-cooler is to lower the air charge temp. A larger one will work, if, it is exposed to air flow and I do not see much room for a larger IC that would actually see any additional air flow. If you were to actually decrease the air temp below that of the inter-cooler then most likely it will work in reverse, you will actually raise the air temp after the inter-cooler. And, lets not forget the heat that is blown over the UUP pipe from the radiator, so much for the IC working, damn. UUP pipe is bogus, if anything it improves throttle response, that is it.

I do believe a ceramic coated upper and lower intake would keep the intake charge cooler, except for the other heat absorption problems our cars have. Maybe if the aftermarket UPP pipe were ceramic coated it could keep the air temp down and increase throttle response, this could be good I admit.
SI- SII WGA - Ign. Wires - Larger O2 housing - 3" CAT - 2.5' all the way back - LSD - Sway bars - shocks - Lowering springs and you'll be happy, your only going to get so much out of that little tiny weenie turbo anyway. GEEZ.

[8]

[Mean Green]

quote:Originally posted by ptgtcb

Man, you guys still don't get it. If the newbies want to learn then they should hit search and the archives!

If you run an open element in the engine compartment then you will increase the air temp to the engine, no good, but the intercooler will work to bring the temp down. Show me the test where the the air charge temp is the same when entering the turbo and when it enters the intake, show me!

If you run a tube down to the brake duct then you may well introduce some cooler air into the turbo. Unfortunately, the turbo will heat up this cooler air and all your great mods are for not. If the turbo does not heat this so called colder and denser air the long tube that runs from the turbo to the inter-cooler will, the one that runs right next to the HOT oil pan. The reason we have an inter-cooler is to lower the air charge temp. A larger one will work, if, it is exposed to air flow and I do not see much room for a larger IC that would actually see any additional air flow. If you were to actually decrease the air temp below that of the inter-cooler then most likely it will work in reverse, you will actually raise the air temp after the inter-cooler. And, lets not forget the heat that is blown over the UUP pipe from the radiator, so much for the IC working, damn. UUP pipe is bogus, if anything it improves throttle response, that is it.

I do believe a ceramic coated upper and lower intake would keep the intake charge cooler, except for the other heat absorption problems our cars have. Maybe if the aftermarket UPP pipe were ceramic coated it could keep the air temp down and increase throttle response, this could be good I admit.
SI- SII WGA - Ign. Wires - Larger O2 housing - 3" CAT - 2.5' all the way back - LSD - Sway bars - shocks - Lowering springs and you'll be happy, your only going to get so much out of that little tiny weenie turbo anyway. GEEZ.

[8]

You are getting overly excited. The idea is to have cooler air enter the engine and not hotter air like a open element will allow. Yes, the air is going to get warmer going from the airbox to the turbo. Yes, the air is going to get warmer running up the ucp. But the intercooler is not having to work as hard to cool down the air if you are not sucking in hot engine air. [xx(] It was proven on the dyno that with the factory airbox you lose a few hp but you gain a lot more torque and more torque is what you want to win races. As for the ucp being bogus you haven't tried it with and without Adam's VAK ucp. I have and there is a big difference between his hardpipe and the factory silcone rubber piping that balloons and loses boost. The hardpipe holds boost longer and that is a good thing. Deen (hyracer) will attest to the big difference when our GT's were the same powerwise except for my having the VAK ucp. My GT pulled a lot harder than his did. Of course now even though we have both added more power he has added more and his GT would beat mine [?]

[Cal Cruzer]

quote:Originally posted by ptgtcb
Show me the test where the the air charge temp is the same when entering the turbo and when it enters the intake, show me!

Show me were the test is that shows when you put cold air into a system it comes out the other side at the same temp as putting hot air into the system. That assumtion flies in the face of all racing technology. Every racing team in the world, F1 included (highly pressurized), wants as cool and intake charge before the turbo as it can get. Are they ALL wrong and you are right?