Blitz Turbo Timer The instructions from Exhaust Depot were easy to read, understand and follow. Installation was fairly simple. Purchased the Black with the modified harness. [URL-www.exhaustdepot.com Cost 144.00 (Dual unit w/boost gauge)+ 15.00 for extended harness The hardest part was soldering the wires into the ignition harness. They send in line wire connectors that should work just fine. I soldered and insulated the wires on mine. 3 wires to the ignition switch connector, and 2 black ground wires, and 1 purple (safety) ground wire. (this wire can be connected to the emergency brake mechanism or grounded with the other 2 ground wires) which is what I did. This is a saftey wire, mostly for the Manual trans so that the timer will not keep the cruiser running without the emergency brake on. The modified harness that I purchased with the timer, gives you more flexibility as to where you can mount the computer box. (Longer wires). Only took a little more than an hour total and would not have taken that long if I did not have to remove my Autometer 2 5/8 ultralite vac/boost and voltage gauges mounted on the steering column housing using chrome cups. I got the unit with the boost gauge specifically for the peak hold feature. It comes in handy for adjustment of the boost controller. The unit functions perfectly. I currently have it mounted to the dash under the vent by the driver side door with heavy duty Velcro (purchased at radio shack). This way if I decide to move it it will be simple to do and not tear up the dash at all. I like the idea of mounting it on the windshield above the mirror & may try that (it would look COOL there). I currently have it set to the Automatic mode. You can program in a base time between 1 & 60 seconds, and there are 2 auto modes. One adds 130 sec for every hr that the cruiser has been running (this is what I use), and the other adds 55 sec for every hour run. You can still lock the doors, and after the motor shuts off, the alarm flasher will start blinking and the alarm on mine does still work. I am very pleased with the purchase, it gives me peace of mind that I am doing all that I can to insure that the Turbo bearings will not be an issue down the road.
Hallman Pro Boost Controller . I purchased 2 models. The original CNC Billet model w/steel ball in Red. And the RX model in Black. (URL -
WWW.Hallmanboostcontrol.com )
BC-41R - Hallman Pro Kit - RED $100.00 (Steel Ball)
BC-41B - Hallman Pro Kit - BLACK $100.00 (Steel Ball)
In reading the threads I wanted to be sure that I got the right controller. I installed the RX controller first (ceramic ball). I did it in the AM and ran to temp and then adjusted it gradually until the Boost Spiked at 15-16 and leveled out at 9-10. All was well, until I ran the cruiser until it was hot (driven 1 hr. at highway speeds kicking in boost once in a while). On my way back home I found a stretch of I 495 w/no cars, no law, and a long straight run. I decide to let her loose. When the boost kicked in (autostick) and passing gear the boost spiked to 19-20 and the waste gate opened completely and shut down the boost. I also got a check engine lite. Following that I backed off the adjustment until it was completely backed off, and the turbo still spiked @ 19 & got a check lite again. Returned to stock setup and disco the batt. to remone chk engine. All worked fine. Then I installed the Hallman Pro Standard model (Steel Ball) and had the boost cranked down as low as I could get it (I was wary) It worked fine so I commenced to adjust it. The adjustment is not as fine, but it is more steady. It spikes momentarily @ 13-14 at the most and then steadies @ 10-12. Ran rigerous test on it this pm and it has worked flawlessly even @ 120-125 mph. I don't know exactly what to contribute the failure of the first valve other than under heavy accelleration & Boost the ceramic ball valve would close completely and allow very high boost. I don't know if it is defective or i