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I'm thinking the same thing but it should be pretty hard to mix them as the front have a smaller radius that go right around the strut where the rear are larger.
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![]() ...just CREWZIN along! ® . . . PT Cruiser Links Moderator ![]() 2000 PT. Original Owner, 110,000 miles MY technical suggestions are given in GOOD FAITH without total guarantee, if in doubt go to a Garage. Visit My Home Page www.CREWZIN.com Last edited by CREWZIN; 08 Aug 2009 at 11:40 am. |
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Believe you have that flipped - I think the rear are smaller radius...
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'05 Limited Turbo Lite, (Silver, of course)4-wheel ABS, Sunroof, Spoiler. Mods: E&G Classic grill, K&N FIPK, BTG duals, rear lowered 1.5", LED washer lights, $20 catch can, Aoogah horn, Weatherflectors, Sunroof Deflector, Fuzzy Dice, rear logo flames, rear pinstripe graphic, Gen3 Taillights, rear sway bar, hood struts, Strut bar. Traded in '02 Silver Touring Edition w/87,000 miles |
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Hey their muzicmax,
As far as I know, you should be good to go. The rear springs are the smaller ones, and are held in by the weight of the vehicle. Basically all you need to do for installation is relieve the pressure off the rear end, gently pull the old springs out by hand, and slip the new ones in. I had the Goldline Super Slammers on mine, and did 3 other PT's with the same set up. If you are hearing a clunking noise, I would maybe try checking out the rubber mounting boot at the top of the spring to see if its not out of place rubbing metal to metal causing noise. That is a pretty common problem, and I used to wind up zip tying my boots to avoid any problems of this nature when I did my installs. The only thing I didn't like about the Goldlines was on my ride, I bought them to level out the ride height on my PT which with the Slammers being a2.75" / 3.25" drop, I though it should do it, but it still left a 2" rake which kinda irked me off so I had a good friend of mine who has a spring coiler machine turn me off a one off custom set that actually gave me the look I wanted with a full 3" / 5" drop which was almost literally as low as air ride. Again, even my custom coilds go in the same way as the Goldlines, with the larger coils going into the strut assemble in front, and the backs being gravity loaded (held in place by the weight of the car). Here is a pic showing my ride at stock height, then Goldline Super Slammers, then my springs to at least show you exactly where it should sit. ![]() Sine I did my first set of custom springs, I have since made 3 more sets of which I actually just sold my last set yesterday. Like I say, it sounds like your guy is putting them in correctly, and you should have no problems with them, but if you still continue to have any questions, or problems with these, please feel free to let me know and I will see if I can help you figure out whats wrong. Go easy, Candyman
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![]() Check out my Custom PT Club Website: http://westvalleyforum.proboards.com/index.cgi And my ever growing PT Photo Archives: http://s458.photobucket.com/albums/q...uiserArchives/ Got a Question? Drop me a line anytime: westvalleycruisers@yahoo.com |
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Yeah the springs are in the right places(front & back). I think I may have figured it out. I was looking closely and I think the problem is the sway bar on the car? We are going to remove it and try again.. The springs fit but they almost seem to short. On the hoist with the car up we can basicaly pull em out by hand which we shouldn't be able to (I don't think because you can't do that with the stock ones). I hope it looks half decent when we do figure it out though. I presumed they would level the car out as well. If they don't look good I am going to be irked too... We have the front ones installed already. I did notice on a good bump my struts bottom out.
![]() Dam if I had known about your custom springs, I may have bought some instead of these...I might be able to get some made here but I would have to get the dimensions or whatever from you (if you don't mind sharing). Well we are going to have another go at it and see what we can come up with. I will let you know and try the things that have been suggested. Thanks Alot Candyman! Here's my ride without the springs in yet........ ![]() Click on the pic to get a bigger picture. ![]() ![]()
Last edited by muzicmax; 09 Aug 2009 at 01:15 am. |
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another thing to look at when looking at springs is your ride comfort. if you just wanna slam it and dont care too much about quality of ride then more power to you. but if you using it for daily driving then look at the spring rates and compare to other kits. a lower spring rate will be a more comfy ride vs a higher number which will be very stiff. if you doing any type of racing then you'd want a stiffer spring to minize the amout of weight transfer but it will have harsh street driving. but no matter what rate you choose it wont be as nice as stock.
the only way to get a good comfy ride while still being low is to go with Coilovers there alot more expensive but with the adjustability you cant go wrong. you can have it low all year round of if your in a wintery place raise it back up to stock height. if you manage to get ones with adjustable damping then you can make it smooth ride or stiff as hell.
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Nevin. 03 SRT-4 — 132k mi ported stocker and lots of other stuff 68 Mustang Coupe — project fail!! PT Less - ex wife took in the divorce 3/2011 05 GT Cruiser H.O. — last dyno 245hp/283tq @ 15psi — OCT 08 3 in intake, Stage 1 PCM, Stage 2 WGA, ported turbo@21psi, 682cc, 160 deg T-stat, Check valve, Ngk 4306 plugs, 10mm spark plug wires, 3in O2, 3in DP, 3in Y-pipe with E-cutout, 2.5 in catback exhaust, upper/lower hardpipes, HKS SSQ bov, block off plate, Energy Suspention MM inserts, NSRT hawk HPS front/rear pads, NSRT Drilled/slotted rotors, NSRT steel braded front lines, Mopar 26mm Swaybar, NSRT energy suspention swaybar bushing, NSRT energy suspention swaybar endlinks, APC Non-turbo strut bar, Black housing headlights, Tinted rear tail lights, Schroth 4 point harness, Perrin catchcan, 3 pod a-piller, boost guage 30/30, oil pressure gauge, volt gauge |
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One of my biggest concern when lower a car IS the ride quality. Just installing springs doesn't cut it. From experience, once you install lowered springs with stock shocks, the stroke of the shock is much shorter. The shorter, the easier they bottom and blow. Plus, the ride suck big time...improper compression and dampening. Whenever I lower a car, I always changed both. Do not give up on ride confort..period. The trick is finding the correct shock to the spring hieght.
For this PT, I used the H&R Cup Kit. The kit is perfectly match and provide a eurpean feel, controlled and relaxed. I had the same system before in my old e36, which was perfect for daily driving. Once you step into the mis-match zone, the ride will always feel nervous and unforgiving. I get compliments from others about how well the car rides. Good Luck!!!
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2005 Touring Black - Automagic.... ![]() H&R Cup Kit | TSW Sakata 18x8 35ET | Nankang NS-II 235/40/18 | SPC front alignment cam - rear shim | OEM Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Pads | Rebuilt Cylinder Head - Safety Valves and Guides | Felpro Head Gasket and upper rebuild kit | Fail-safe 195 degree thermostat | Mopar Waterpump...lol | 3rd radiator fan motor | Gates timing belt kit | WIX filters (oil, transmission) | Mobile 1 5w30 | Mopar ATF4 | Redline Water Wetter | K&N Drop-In |
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Ahhh....
I forgot to mention. The PT suspension is SOOO easy to install. I didnt have to look for any instructions! As I mentioned on other post, it Honda easy....with the right tools
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2005 Touring Black - Automagic.... ![]() H&R Cup Kit | TSW Sakata 18x8 35ET | Nankang NS-II 235/40/18 | SPC front alignment cam - rear shim | OEM Rotors | Akebono Ceramic Pads | Rebuilt Cylinder Head - Safety Valves and Guides | Felpro Head Gasket and upper rebuild kit | Fail-safe 195 degree thermostat | Mopar Waterpump...lol | 3rd radiator fan motor | Gates timing belt kit | WIX filters (oil, transmission) | Mobile 1 5w30 | Mopar ATF4 | Redline Water Wetter | K&N Drop-In |
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