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Installed Eibach Anti Roll Kit(Front & Rear Sway)

 
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Old 06 Sep 2003, 08:38 pm
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Default Installed Eibach Anti Roll Kit(Front & Rear Sway)

Below is the list of all of the parts needed for the install of the rear Sway bar on the GT Cruiser:

PT Cruiser GT Turbo
Parts List: Rear Sway Bar Parts needed for Aftermarket Rear Sway Bar (Yr.2003)

Part# Description QTY(ea.)

04656927AA---------RETAINER Sway Bar------------------------QTY-2
04656940AA---------RETAINER Sway Bar------------------------QTY-2
06504010-----------SCREW & WASHER Hex Head, M10x1.50x35-----QTY-2
04656934AB---------LINK Sway Eliminator---------------------QTY-2
06506496AA---------BOLT Lower Link to Sway Bar--------------QTY-2
06506509AA---------SCREW,Hex Head---------------------------QTY-2
06502696-----------NUT,Hex Flange Lock M10x1.5--------------QTY-4

The hex flange nut you do need 4 of. 2 extras for bolting the sway bar bushing bracket to the rail between the wheels.

Everything went fine except installing the 2 flange nuts that go on the bolts that hold the rear axle bushing retainers. I was told this was going to be a PITA and it was. I ended up taping the nut in an open end wrench to get it behind the flange. Had to clamp the bushing retainers closed with a large pair of needle nose vice grips, in order to get the nut started. Once I had the nut started I thought I had it made. NOT!! As you tighten the bolt the nut pulls closer to the flange at an angle. On the drivers side it pulled up OK and the nut stayed in the wrench. Not so lucky on the passengers side. The angle was more severe, and it took about 15 min. and any number of tries to get it started. It did finally start. After pulling the bushing only 1/2 way tight the angle was too severe for the nut to stay in the wrench. Many attempts (Blind cause you can't see the nut at all) failed. Took a wrench and put it in a vise and bent a slight offset. Can't be much or the wrench won't get behind the flange. Backed off on the bolt a little till it felt like the wrench was on the nut. Jammed a large flat blade screwdriver between the rail and the back of the open end wrench to keep it on the nut. Could not use the impact tools to tighten the bolt (Too much vibration). Used a 1/2" ratchet to slowly tighten the bolt until it was tight. Looking at how the flanges are welded to the rail, some installations will be more difficult than others because the welds are not all exactly (to the 32nd) the same. Thats why the drivers side went on easier than the passenger side.

I put the PT tuning strut tower bar on also. Good instructions, all parts necessary were there all went well. I had to relocate my Dual stage boost controller (modified the bracket to turn it 90 degrees) as well as relocate the oil catch filter. Fairly easy & we were done.

The results were nothing short of amazing. I adjusted the rear sway bar to the firm setting. Improved steering response, very little body roll, and a firmer feel to the whole car. I could actually take some fairly severe turns @ 45-50 mph with confidence. (don't usually take turns that fast though). The car nosed into the turns better abnd stuck to the road better with minimum body roll. I am very pleased with the results.

Alan
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Old 08 Sep 2003, 01:26 am
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[:X] Very nice. Wanting to do the same setup as you are...with some adjustable Koni's Not available until October tho
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Old 10 Sep 2003, 02:40 pm
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That is Ok with me probably wont have money for the expensive expensive Konis till then anyways and that is with my credit card!! If these bars work so good, and I think you guys are calling it straight, then why did DC go out of there way not only to not put them on but also tell us the results would be bad if we did????????
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Old 11 Sep 2003, 04:43 pm
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Eibach sells a part # that is supposed to have everything you need if your car did not come with a factory rear sway. The part # is 2860.320HKR .
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Old 11 Sep 2003, 10:56 pm
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Damn you guys are finally catching up to me in the handling department ! Alan those 2 problems you had with rear sway....well don't try nylock nuts there ! I ended up doing same as you....could have warned ya !
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Old 30 Oct 2003, 01:20 am
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Wow, what a pain in the ass. Can't see that nut at all. Had to bend a wrench esp as it got tighter. Plus, Eibach suggests leveling the car to tighten all the bolts and I have a lowered car, so not a lot of room to work in. Just finishing and then going for test drive. My End link sits at a more shallow angle because of the lowering. Is this correct. Kinda like a steeper "V" between the endlink and bar arm. Sigh.
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Old 30 Oct 2003, 09:16 am
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Very easy to level the car and still be able to work under it. Just drive-up over several thicknesses of 2 x 4's, stagering each 2 x 4 by 6 inches or so as you drive forward.
Deen
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Old 30 Oct 2003, 10:00 am
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How do I know which is the firm setting on the rear bar. The guide says set at second bolt hole, which I did. Is this the softer setting?
Took it for a drive and have to say it was quite a nice change. My body is so used to rolling with the car, that my torso would want to do it, even when the car did not
I like it, was fun to install (didn't break anything) and it is a creative stability addition.
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Old 30 Oct 2003, 12:08 pm
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Yes, the lower bolt anchor position is the softer setting. I set mine up at the firmer setting, but I do not have the cruiser lowered. I suspect that with the cruiser lowered that you might want to stick with the softer setting. Should still tighten up the handling nicely. I know what you mean about leaning into a corner, But the cruiser noses into a corner with a great deal more stability and much less body roll. It's a real kick to drive on a twisty road.
As far as mods go, stage 1 and eibach anti roll kit are the best performance mods that I have done. ENJOY.......
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Old 02 Nov 2003, 02:42 am
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Alan .... the firmer setting shouldn't be used on wet roads. You might want to consider going to the softer setting as it's good for all types of surfaces, etc. This is according to Eibach, why of course.
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