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Top Nut on Strut


 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 17 Dec 2003, 09:16 pm
LAF LAF is offline
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Default Top Nut on Strut

I am gearing up for spring change and see there is a special tool for the top nut. I thought I saw something on a very easy solution to this. I searched but could not find it. Could someone help a old man out?

TIA
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Old 17 Dec 2003, 09:51 pm
Punch Punch is offline
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http://www.randgraphics.org/PT_Cruis...isc_photos.htm

surf about half way down the page....
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Old 17 Dec 2003, 10:19 pm
LAF LAF is offline
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Thanks Punch! Only one other question and that is what size spark plug socket, guess I will just try a couple.
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Old 17 Dec 2003, 10:23 pm
Larry Larry is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by LAF

Thanks Punch! Only one other question and that is what size spark plug socket, guess I will just try a couple.
Here's another option

http://tinyurl.com/37lje

Larry
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Old 17 Dec 2003, 10:49 pm
IRPT IRPT is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by LAF

Thanks Punch! Only one other question and that is what size spark plug socket, guess I will just try a couple.
The one I used (in the photo) was a 13/16th.
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Old 18 Dec 2003, 12:08 am
LAF LAF is offline
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IRPT,

Thank you for the info. Only one other question, you used your set up to only loosen the center nut before you removed the strut, correct? Then after using the sping compressor took it all the way off.
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The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge.
Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915)

2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock
Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3” down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners

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Old 18 Dec 2003, 12:11 am
LAF LAF is offline
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Larry,
Thanks for the link. I dispise having to buy a tool for something that there is no need for. I know there are some times where it has to be, but a strut?

Anyway thanks......
__________________
The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge.
Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915)

2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock
Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3” down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners

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Old 18 Dec 2003, 12:41 am
IRPT IRPT is offline
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by LAF

IRPT,

Thank you for the info. Only one other question, you used your set up to only loosen the center nut before you removed the strut, correct? Then after using the sping compressor took it all the way off.
LAF, correct. Just loosen the center nut enough to allow you to turn it when you have the spring compressor in place and tightened down. You don't want the nut to pop off before you are ready, i.e. spring compressor in place and tightened down.

I used it again to tighten the nut after I had the strut assembly re-installed.

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