Installed the rear swaybar over the weekend...wow!

[OurPTGT]

Which is the FIRM setting on the bar? The hole nearest the end of the bar or the other one? Thanks [?]

[ptgtcb]

quote:Originally posted by onedivinehammer




Looking at this image you will notice on the "clam" bracket there is an additional piece on the top. This piece should have been bent to hold together the "clam" bracket during installation. The way to do this is put the bracket on the bar, close it, and use a pair of pliers and bend this piece over as to hold the bracket to the bar. This way the installation of the bar becomes less of a &*%#@. The worse part is trying to get the bolt to drill into the threading of the nut, and an additional hand to hold all pieces is necessary. This way you're not trying to hold/tighten the bracket and drill the bolt into the nut, which is asinine. (Which is what I ended up doing, spending loads of time on.)

The reason I did not bend it is that I took it on and off several times and did not want to have to bend it back. A needle nose vise grip works better anyway.
The last hole on the bar is the softest setting.

[jgale]

"No, tightening up the rear induces understeer (push)... " ?????

I disagree entirely. Any mod to "stiffen" the rear, or "soften" the front suspension of most FWD vehicles will only help alleviate an understeer problem. Just about any good book on racing suspension or just talking to someone who races will confirm this. Unless the suspension on the PT's is some sort of strange anomaly, I believe your mistaken in your diagnosis.

On another note, how can you compare the handling characteristics of a front-engine FWD car with that of a mid-engine RWD car??? They VERY different reactions to any suspension modifications.

[Dragula]

JG,

I agree with you, but my experience has only been with rear wheel drive cars. When disagreements arose about what I said I kept quiet for that reason. I am confident that I'm correct though.

The PT has natural understeer (push) from the factory. You can get it to a more neutral point by adding a rear anti-roll bar. Too much rear anti-roll bar and you'll get into oversteer (loose). Sure you want to increase contact patch, but if you start to lift the inside wheel in a turn you lose it.

That's why I always recommend buying a set from the same manufacturer. They've engineered the front and rear bars to create the right balance. It takes guess work out of the equation.

I honestly don't know what effects a strut tower bar would have. If I had to guess I would say that stiffening the front end with a strut tower bar would add to understeer, but it may have different effects than anti-roll bars do.

[Mike-in-Orange]

jg, dragula, I agree with both of you, even when talking about a front engine/fwd car.

Most manufacturers build in a fair amount of understeer because it is more controllable by your average run of the mill driver - oversteer is a horse of a different color! Even on Sports Car Revolution on Speed Channel, as they were building their season long Acura RSX project car (front engine/FWD) they cautioned on the use of an overly agressive rear anti-sway bar as it would elimate the understeer and induce oversteer. In their words "something you DON'T want on the street".

The big question is - how agressive do you have to go to eliminate the high degree of understeer in the DNA of a front engine/FWD car? Are we even coming close to doing this with anybody's aftermarket anti-sways bars? I would hope that none of them are that agressive.

[AlmondTurbo]

Just installed my new OEM rear sway bar. Ordered it at 10:45 am yesterday, and it was at my dealer's at 8:00 am this morning. Total cost for all hardware including cushions (rubber bushings not listed in Gearhead's shopping list), was $220. 2 bolts, to hold upper link to body were not available (got them at my local 'has everything you need' hardware store) these were grade 8. I used the stud method to mount the clamshell brackets to axle. Held the back nut with a very flat open end wrench. Put double nuts on the stud (jam the 2 nuts together, use the outside nut to run the stud into the backside lock-nut). Break the nuts loose, spin off by hand. Now you can slide those pesky clamshell brackets on. You need a real flat open end wrench to hold the back nut. A deep socket is needed to tighten the lock nut you will use on the out side of the stud. For my job, I was able to get both clamshells into the slots in the axle, but one was much easier than the other. Links were easy, once you find the threaded holes in the frame. I had first tried the clamshells with the oem bolt for 30 minutes before going for the studs. Going over the mountains to the California coast tomorrow for a test drive. I took pictures of most of the project, feel free to email me if they can be helpful, as I don't have an online photo (storage?)location. Darrell

[ptgtcb]

Darrell,
If your going to be near Pismo Beach there is the California Meet & Greet in Arroyo Grande @ Biddle Park on the 26th. I posted some info on the meet in the Reginal PT western section.

[AlmondTurbo]

ptgtcb, Sorry to miss Pismo, as time would not allow. Handling is much improved thru the mountains, and worth the sweat of installation. Knowing what I know now, I think I could do this (rear sway bar) job again in 30 minutes. I'm looking forward to taking my PT over the big mountains to Reno soon. I'm very happy with this setup, OEM rear sway bar, BTG strut brace. I test drove a new Neon SRT-4, 5 speed, and decided if I want a hot rod, I'll start with one of those. As for now, I'll be happily cruising in my PT. All of the friends that have traveled with me any distance are very impressed with this package. Darrell

[purplept]

I also have the front and rear Eibach anti-roll kit #2860.320 along with the Eibach rear hardware kit #2860.320HKR. Like most everyone said, the handling is much flatter when cornering. For those who aren't aware, the Eibach rear anti-roll bar is adjustable with two unique positions. I use the full forward position which is the firmest setting which gives my car very neutral handling. The full rear position is the softest setting which adds some understeer. I'm very pleased with the complete Eibach setup. I had my dealer do the install which I was billed for 2.6 hours.

[lowthers]

Has anyone heard from Chrysler about this? Is their claim that they increased some 'internal' rear swaybar crap? Does an 'internal' rear swaybar even exist? And what are the warranty ramifications of fitting the original OEM rear swaybar?

Do you think they were just saving money by deleting it or did they decide they wanted more understeer in the car to allay any potential lawsuits from a car with too much oversteer?

I'd love to hear from one of the development engineers on this....

I just took delivery of an 04 GT. It rolls like a pig compared to my Touring Edition 01. No way does it have the same roll stiffness. But the extra power sure is welcome. David