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I have the H&R's and had some exhuast interference problems with my Borla kit. The bell crank would hit the exhaust and rattle some. I amde several adjustments to the exhaust and almost compltetly eliminated the problem exept over bigger bumps. I finally fabricated an exhaust hanger to take the sag out of the exhuast system back at the end of the straight run under the car. I attached it to the bolt that holds the heat shield to the bottom of the car and that ultimately solved the problem.
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The real problem is that with the higher performance springs you have an out of balance rear suspension; Overspring / Under damped.
Get yourself a set of konis for the rear, they will soften the rebound and also have an aditional softer bumpstop in the shell. No free lunch, you can't do just one thing without a consequence.[8)] |
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I have a plan now based on what I'vew heard and what I want to achieve. I may order the BTG's (only 1.5 inche drop in the back) I won't install the front. Then I plan on selling my rear gold line, and BTG fronts, which should be a nice pair for someone interested.
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2003 Turbo GT 5-speed/ www.perfectautofinish.com Founder/ Chicagoland PT Cruiser Club Contributing Editor, PTCruiserLinks.com www.ptcruiserlinks.com/garys-cleaning-tips |
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I have Eibach springs, 1.6" front and 2" rear. I had the BTG exhaust and now have the Heartthrob single and no clunking problems with either. I have stock shocks, too. I wonder why others are having problems? [:I]
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\'05 Stone White SRT4 \'04 Graphite PT Automatic |
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Please read Kirby's comments again. He is very correct about matching spring rates. I initially installed just rears on mine but after a 5 minute drive I went home and put the fronts on. The car just does not handle right with unmatched springs. I am not advocating one spring over another, just match them up. Goldlines people seem to think theirs have the best ride, I don't know. I do know that you can run out of talent real fast in an emergency manuver with a suspension that is not set up right. Spring rates are a huge part of that. Please rethink your plan
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I have rears only, am very pleased with handling improvement, also have the "clunk" with duals. I am quite sure (based on sound) the clunk is exhaust where it crosses over beam axle. Where & what padding was used, Gary? I've learned to live with it, but if I don't have to....
And c'mon, 3/8" ?? You could handle that with tire pressure!
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\'05 Limited Turbo Lite, (Silver, of course)4-wheel ABS, Sunroof, Spoiler, E&G Classic grill, K&N FIPK, BTG duals, rear lowered 1.5\", LED washer lights, $20 catch can, Aoogah horn, Weatherflectors, Sunroof Deflector, Fuzzy Dice, rear logo flames, rear pinstripe graphic, Gen3 Taillights, rear sway bar, hood struts, Strut bar. Traded in \'02 Silver Touring Edition w/87,000 miles |
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I tried going over certain railroad tracks, speed bumps, freeway dips, etc today. I intentionally sought out the areas that had been most upsetting to the stock shocks/struts and GoldLine combo. In order to get the exhaust/axle clunk now I have to hit the speed bumps way harder than I normally would. The rear end doesn't bounce around like it used to, and the handling is overall tighter and more confidence inspiring. I'm telling you, the improvement in ride quality is well worth the $265 I spent on the set. How much of an improvement you'd get with a 3" drop in the rear like SakiGT did I can't say, but that's a pretty extreme change and I suppose some compromises are really in order there. kgdptblue, you must have one sweet handling PT there! From now on, if anybody asks me about lowering springs, I will strongly urge them to upgrade their shocks/struts no matter which springs they go with. The factory set just isn't up to the task. |
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If you are not matching springs you are setting yourself up for unpredictable results at the worst time. This will bite you sooner or later. These are just not round pieces of steel, metals, coil, coil diam., compression rates, all kinds of stuff are at work here. I would never mismatch springs, or tires. Just match em up!
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The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge. Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915) 2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3” down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners Support Your Right to Arm Bears
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The spring rate for the eibach and gold lines are pretty much the same, same dia wire and amount of coils. I have eibach front and rear springs and then put the goldline slammer rear springs on to lower the rear more. Looks good but it is just a little too low and it did cause the front to come up a little, seems to handle the same or better. The only problem it that it is going to be too low when I load it up, most likely will sag in the back. I intend on making some spacers out of a type of plastic to space it about 1/2 to 5/8. The spacers will fit under the rubber isolators, you just have to make sure there is enough spring locator still sticking up to retain the spring and not to worry the material is extreamly tough as one of the guys at work uses this on his race car with 800 lbs springs and raced all last season with no problems.
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