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If you do alot of autocrossing, would it just be better to get lowering springs/better shocks&struts and not add anti-roll bars?
Or is it better to add the motherload of all handling: Strutbars, lowering springs/struts/shocks, and anti-roll bars??? I looked at tirerack.com selection for autocrossing suspensions and saw only H&R Coilovers. If you look at street performance it has antisway bars and springs. |
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For autocross, you need the whole enchilada. The PT sits too high, the springs are too loose, the standard shocks which are adequate with the stock springs, don't work well with lowering springs, and the standard sway bar (no sway bar on the back of the GT's) allows too much body roll. The stock combination will slow you down and scare the poo out of you are you slide through the cones (not the idea of course).
Autocross is a good application for the stiffest sway bars you can find. It will make the ride stiffer and can introduce wheel hop on rough streets (not good) but will make a significant postiive difference in the autocrossing the PT. The SRT-4 is a better car to start with for autocross but isn't nearly as practical for everyday use.
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2003 Almond GT AutoStick, body colored rear splash guards and hood struts, chrome gear shift, AC & vent knobs, billet steering wheel spokes and pedals, AMX1397 Turbo-Intake Pipe. |
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If you're serious about autocross then spend the $$ on a full set of coilovers and have them set up PROPERLY! Add the stiffest f/r antisways you can get your hands on, and the stickiest tires available.
Autocross courses are so tight you'll never touch the S2000s, Mini Coopers, hopped up Miatas, 350Zs etc. Do those suspension mods and take your car to a road course with some decent power straights and you'll shock the heck out of those guys. |
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What do you do for brakes? I know a bunch of cars get warped rotors after a few hot laps.
Our track has a long straight (it doubles as the 1/4 mile with runout), I have reached 225km/h (140mph) on a bike at the end of the straight, then praying "please god, let the brake fluid not boil this lap". Ger.
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GT |
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I can help you there.
But like all of the above suggestions, it costs money and time to do it right. Hang in there. We'll turn that PT into a Trans Am car in no time! Well, maybe not. But you can surely make improvements. |
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If you are kinda on a budget, I'd go w/ Koni Yellows (or KYBs if you're really on a budget), a Linear wound spring (not progressive), and a set of sway bars. If you are going to get into it seriously run 2 sets of wheels and tires. Keep your stockers for the road, and run a 16in rim w/ a lower profile tire w/ R compound rubber.
If you have the money do as Mike-in-orange suggested and get Real coilovers (not the sleave kits). The best place to start out is when a local corvette, mustang, or camaro club sets up an event. If you know what you're doing you should be able to run times equal or better than their's. I know that ppl in the neon community are friendly when it comes to AutoX so watch for events in your area, posted on neons.org. AC
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If it doesn\'t fit get a hammer. If it still doesn\'t fit, get a bigger hammer. - Jesse James ![]() |
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Do yourself a favor; before you spend your retirement on what you think you might need. Go to some events and talk with the guys who race FWD vehicles.
More important than sways, you will have to get both front wheels driving your PT- this means positrac. I haven't seen that many FWD autocrossers dealing with bodyroll by using heavier sway bars, more often with increased spring and shock adjustments. It is possible to have various spring rebound rates to deal with different needs. Coilovers offer the ability to tune your PTs footprint..predload the front vs rear, and left vs right, and get significant performance increase. If swaybars were the be-all/end-all, racing autos would all have solid axils....the main idea is to keep as much rubber on the road at all times as is possible. Sways do create wheel lift in racing conditions, so check out what others have learned at the track before you buy![8)] |
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