any advice on installing Camber kit?

[nozzano22]

After lowering my alignment was just a tick off of spec, but since I am having to replace most of the parts on the driver side after my close encounter of the curb kind, I decided to pick up the camber kit.

Any tips or pointer appreciated.

Now just waiting for my control arm, knuckle, power slot rotors, etc, to arrive,

Thanks Tommy, your assistance with the parts is greatly appreciated,

Mike

[RallyDRock]

once i used this magnet that had a liquid level on it, you would just stick it to the rotor and it would tell you the camber, cant seem to find it online though because id like to order one, maybe SciFi will come through and let us know.

when i put in my camber kit i had also replaced several other parts and had a professional alignment done on a Hunter machine

saw this one but it attaches to the hub and is much more expensive. probably much more accurate and im thinking about giving it a try.

[PTurbed]

quote:Originally posted by RallyDRock

[}] My Doctor has a dealie just like this one!!! [)]

[sakigt]

I just had a shop install mine. That goes on the very short list of things I didnt install. I figured $150 including and alignment and parts was totally worth it.

[1ptturbo]

I used the Mopar kit because my camber was off on the right side, even before lowering. The mopar kit is just a smaller diameter bolt for the upper strut mounting an allows for "some" movement to adjust for camber. You can just slot the upper bolt hole on the strut housing and acheive the same result for a lot less money, just be careful to only slot it side to side and don't go animal.

I think there are some cam shaped bolts you can buy which makes adjustment a little easier, but they do not allow for a lot of adjustment.

If you change the camber then you must reset the toe! I found that even a slight camber change affects the toe adjustment quite a bit. I would not recommend more than -1 degree unless you do some serious twisty driving all the time. I set mine at -1.2 deg. at first but found my tires wearing just slightly more on the inside edge so when I installed my konis I set it @-.8 degrees, I just do not see enough twisty roads.

It is the rear of the car that we need to adjust for better handling and it can be a pain since you have to shim the spindles. When we lower our cars it does not affect the rear alignment so we do not get any negative camber change in the rear, bummer.

Nozzano, I would recommend -.5 deg camber and you will see more even wear on your tires. I beleive that is the max for the stock spec. If you drive on a lot of twisty roads I would go with -1 to -1.5 if you drive hard.

[nozzano22]

Excellent advice. I bought the 'camber kit' oblong bolts and will install them then head down to the alignment shop. I will have them push it out to the limit of stock, or the .5 like you said. I cannot stand having my tires wear on the outside edges.

Mike