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Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

 
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 23 Oct 2017, 07:29 am
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

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Originally Posted by Sinbad View Post
Acetone Alcohol and a Stanley blade are your friends.

Start with the Acetone and Stanley blade, and drink the alcohol when you get bored and and your fingers hurt.
I have no need of the boredom excuse
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 23 Oct 2017, 07:32 am
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

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Morning all, it is 9am here in Cornwall and the sun is actually shining, wonder how long that will last?! Thanks for the friendly welcome and useful advice and pointers everybody.

A cam belt change is on the 'to do' list as I have not got any service history and although mileage is low the age is not. Other drive belts will be done at the same time as a matter of course plus cam belt tensioner. Often you are advised to change the water pump at the same time as the cam belt- I will read up on this and whether the 2.0 is an 'interference' motor. I have done cambelt changes before, but on my last runabout (Kia Rio with the basic 1.3l 8 valve motor) I failed to get the crank pulley bolt off and had to get it done by the local garage, which fortunately is an old fashioned local outfit with the attitude of doing good work at a fair price so that customers come back for the next job...

I had a search on line re the ABS issue before we bought the car and decided that the usual known causes looked fixable at a reasonable price, hopefully

I have already got a pdf of the Chrysler workshop manual but not looked at it in detail yet, is it worth getting the Haynes as well?

The OEM 16" wheels are definitely in a bad state and I have looked at what can be done with them- chemical stripping and physical blasting are both said to be hard to achieve without damaging the alloy beneath. I very much suspect that even if possible it will cost a lot more than the best deals I have seen for suitable new alloys at around 220-300 a set. Also we might just fancy going to 17" rims, though that would mean new tyres as well. Then there is the issue of the missing centre cap, which I think is specific to the Street Cruiser.

One thing I forgot- all side and tailgate glass have a medium tint which is not in the glass but a film applied internally, which I am guessing is not OEM. This is having issues with little streaky bubbles appearing between it and the glass, worst unfortunately in the drivers door. I imagine this can be stripped off, possibly with the help of some gentle heat from e.g. a hairdryer?

On the timing belt, get a decent kit (Gates et al) including the water pump and tensioners - don't skimp

Get a half decent local garage to do it for you - it is an absolute nucking fightmare - engine up down up down wiggle etc etc and you will not want to do it on the drive yourself.
Be very careful that the guy doing it understands the importance of getting the cam wheels lined up properly...
If you can pay around 350 - 400 including the kit call it job well done, because it's the worst job on the car and absolutely necessary - the engine is interference.
If you can get the same bloke to do the front suspension at the same time for another oner, you have pretty much covered the basics and should be OK for a couple of years motoring outside of what you do on a sunday morning for fun.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 23 Oct 2017, 07:46 am
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

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On the timing belt, get a decent kit (Gates et al) including the water pump and tensioners - don't skimp

Get a half decent local garage to do it for you - it is an absolute nucking fightmare - engine up down up down wiggle etc etc and you will not want to do it on the drive yourself.
Be very careful that the guy doing it understands the importance of getting the cam wheels lined up properly...
If you can pay around 350 - 400 including the kit call it job well done, because it's the worst job on the car and absolutely necessary - the engine is interference.
If you can get the same bloke to do the front suspension at the same time for another oner, you have pretty much covered the basics and should be OK for a couple of years motoring outside of what you do on a sunday morning for fun.
I always use Gates kits and I will entrust it to the same place that did my Kia, the owner/head mechanic does it all himself with an apprentice helping. He is just round the corner and has been in business for a lot longer than I have lived here, and I moved in in 1998...

As for the springs I am probably OK doing them myself, have decent coil spring compressors and I managed to do the front shocks on a Pug 205 which was 'quite interesting'
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Old 23 Oct 2017, 08:10 am
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

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Originally Posted by niggle View Post
I always use Gates kits and I will entrust it to the same place that did my Kia, the owner/head mechanic does it all himself with an apprentice helping. He is just round the corner and has been in business for a lot longer than I have lived here, and I moved in in 1998...

As for the springs I am probably OK doing them myself, have decent coil spring compressors and I managed to do the front shocks on a Pug 205 which was 'quite interesting'
Springs are easy (ish) - but make sure your front wishbones are either new, or as near as damn it. They are a major wear item on these old ladies and if can't get the friendly garage to do them, do them at the same time as the springs

You might want to do the Watts link at the back while you have the arris end in pieces... they're relatively peanuts and sods law dictates yours will start clunking 500 miles after you do the springs
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Old 23 Oct 2017, 08:24 am
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

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Springs are easy (ish) - but make sure your front wishbones are either new, or as near as damn it. They are a major wear item on these old ladies and if can't get the friendly garage to do them, do them at the same time as the springs

You might want to do the Watts link at the back while you have the arris end in pieces... they're relatively peanuts and sods law dictates yours will start clunking 500 miles after you do the springs
Well it needs MOT first, before any mods, and there were no advisories last time, at 49000 miles in Feb 2016. Mileage is now 55000 so will see what comes up before spending s and effort. If no advisories this time will just do springs as and when, if things are starting to deteriorate then yes will be replacing all the wearable stuff. I have seen polyurethane full bush kits for the PT- is this a worthwhile investment?
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Old 25 Oct 2017, 03:14 pm
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

Made a start on the brakes etc. So far I have found 1 trashed front disc and a need for replacement pads all round. Rear discs seem fine, thankfully. All the ABS ring thingies so far have been intact but I have not yet pulled off the right rear hub. The left rear hub still makes a rubbing noise when spun with the disc brake caliper removed, I have wire brushed out the inside of the drum but maybe I need to service the complete parking brake assembly. If the right rear ABS ring is also OK I will try reading codes with my 20 hand held OBD reader.
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Old 25 Oct 2017, 03:38 pm
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

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Originally Posted by niggle View Post
Made a start on the brakes etc. So far I have found 1 trashed front disc and a need for replacement pads all round. Rear discs seem fine, thankfully. All the ABS ring thingies so far have been intact but I have not yet pulled off the right rear hub. The left rear hub still makes a rubbing noise when spun with the disc brake caliper removed, I have wire brushed out the inside of the drum but maybe I need to service the complete parking brake assembly. If the right rear ABS ring is also OK I will try reading codes with my 20 hand held OBD reader.
I would strip the handbrake apart on both sides and rebuild them, coppaslip the adjusters and the usual mularky. Make sure the handbrake cables are free.

They can be a moo to strip, and eventually get back on and adjust up, made worse by the way they rust up and fill with crap and then groove etc etc.
You'll need an old screwdriver bent at about 80 degrees about an inch from the end (or something like it) because there is a star wheel that you have to access through a hole at the back of the brake - look for a little rubber bung about an inch long and 3/8th high and pop it out - after swearing for around 2 minutes you'll find the star wheel
Handbrake cable adjustment is er... "idiosyncratic" to say the least, and involves taking out the centre console which is a delight in itself

All of the above things can cause scraping noises, so it's best just to have at it rather than fiddle around trying to hunt down the culprit.
Getting the drums off initially will probably be the hardest part - the rest of it is pretty much bog standard drum brake stuff from the last 50 years - with the exception of there is a "dimple" on the backplate that the trailing shoe needs to operate properly, and it can wear down or even rust away / break off - you can rebuild it with a blob of weld and a bit of filing down...

Upside is that brake parts are cheap as chips on eBay, and it might even be worth seeing if you can't find a rear drum/disc pads/shoes set and overhaul them once an for all? Cables though, look expensive by comparison...
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Old 25 Oct 2017, 03:47 pm
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

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Originally Posted by rckstein View Post
You should go back and update your intro thread to include pics of your 'vert, as when you posted about it, you were still contemplating buying it
I did update,(post #9) but haven't had time to take pics yet as it's been raining here for the past week.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 25 Oct 2017, 03:47 pm
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

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Originally Posted by niggle View Post
I have seen polyurethane full bush kits for the PT- is this a worthwhile investment?
The usual caveats - extra cost plus a bit harsher ride apparently. Probably depends on what mileage you intend doing in it. The harsher ride theory would probably put me off, but YMMV
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Old 26 Oct 2017, 07:10 am
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Default Re: Deth da (good day) from Cornwall, UK

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinbad View Post
I would strip the handbrake apart on both sides and rebuild them, coppaslip the adjusters and the usual mularky. Make sure the handbrake cables are free.

They can be a moo to strip, and eventually get back on and adjust up, made worse by the way they rust up and fill with crap and then groove etc etc.
You'll need an old screwdriver bent at about 80 degrees about an inch from the end (or something like it) because there is a star wheel that you have to access through a hole at the back of the brake - look for a little rubber bung about an inch long and 3/8th high and pop it out - after swearing for around 2 minutes you'll find the star wheel
Handbrake cable adjustment is er... "idiosyncratic" to say the least, and involves taking out the centre console which is a delight in itself

All of the above things can cause scraping noises, so it's best just to have at it rather than fiddle around trying to hunt down the culprit.
Getting the drums off initially will probably be the hardest part - the rest of it is pretty much bog standard drum brake stuff from the last 50 years - with the exception of there is a "dimple" on the backplate that the trailing shoe needs to operate properly, and it can wear down or even rust away / break off - you can rebuild it with a blob of weld and a bit of filing down...

Upside is that brake parts are cheap as chips on eBay, and it might even be worth seeing if you can't find a rear drum/disc pads/shoes set and overhaul them once an for all? Cables though, look expensive by comparison...
My thoughts exactly re the parking brake and cables, will carry on on those lines this afternoon. I noticed the rear drum/disc is supposed to have a small retaining clip on a wheel stud but this was missing in action- presumably not that essential, just there to aid initial assembly to stop the drum/disc being loose on the hub, which it certainly is not now as rust is doing that job quite well This is the OEM part: https://www.chryslerpartsinc.com/p/C.../06100840.html and I would think that this would be a suitable replacement: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starlock-...8AAOSwZjJU4PUB
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