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did it act like this before you took it in for hub and bering replacement? usually when a CV joint goes out, you hear it clicking and clanking while turning well before any thumping is heard while normal driving. sometimes technicians get a little carried away and try to cut corners. perhaps they overextended the joint by letting it hang when they removed the knuckle. If the bad shaft was on the same side as the hub replacement, id say that it was damaged during the service and would argue that tot he death.
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06 Touring Edition NA/Auto. Airaid intake, Magnaflow Stainless cat-back exhaust, Taylor Thundervolt plug wires, rear lowered 1.75" with H&R Springs. Yep, buying parts I cant afford with money I dont have to impress people I dont like anyways. |
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It only drove like it after they serviced it. I suspect something they did (so does the wife). The only issue I had was the grinding noise turning right when the car was cold. I thought it was just the breaks... but I thought wrong.
The CV joint/boot is covered by 7/70 but there's a $100 deductible... Anoter job shop said it was the tire being out of round, but Discount tire said my wheel is bent. So do I get new wheels ($500+) or $100 to replace the CV joint? |
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well the CV need to be replaced reguardless. as for the rim, Discount has never steered me wrong int he past. you could go back and get a second opinion from another tech. if it needs to be replaced, you could probably find a remanufactured wheel for about half the cost.
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06 Touring Edition NA/Auto. Airaid intake, Magnaflow Stainless cat-back exhaust, Taylor Thundervolt plug wires, rear lowered 1.75" with H&R Springs. Yep, buying parts I cant afford with money I dont have to impress people I dont like anyways. |
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Update to my PT... it was in the shop for two weeks. They first had to order the axle half shaft, that took 3-4 days. Then dealer called me back and said they needed to order a new transmission (5 speed) because the shaft was fused onto the trans. At first I was like 'WTF' but since I didn't have to pay for it except my deductible of $100 from the 7/70 warranty, I didn't care.
After two weeks, I got my car back. The wheels started to thump again going over 60mpg, so I decided to get the tires rotated and balanced, again (3rd time over 200 miles). Problem all fixed... thank goodness. and to think I was about to dump this car. cliffnote: 1) new axle half shaft 2) new transmission because shaft was fused on 3) car fixed Hey Cartman, is this a common problem? |
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You need to find a new dealer. What happened was whoever changed the hub pulled on the knuckle with the lower balljoint separated which pulled the c.v. joint out of the cup. this makes for a longer axle. Whoever then jammed the axle back in place with the joint still separated. While jamming, probably bent the wheel and jammed the other end of the axle into the trans output bushing. Then your dealer/ service writer covered their own butt on the trans and axle with the vehicle warranty. Remember that $100 deductible? No warranty claim, you pay no deductible, the dealer should have paid for their tech's mistake, not Chrysler with a bogus warranty claim. Please find someone else to work on your car, you can't afford to trust these guys and neither can Chrysler !!
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Thanks 37plymouth... well, here is an interesting story. I drove my PT for a few days after fixing all the stuff I 've mentioned, the problem came back. I didn't drive the PT for awhile since I didn't want to get 'shafted' again by the dealership. I knew the brakes needed replacing as it was grinding.
I took my car to a shop to replace the brakes, when I picked it up and drove it next day to work (I was going directly to dealership to have the other axle shaft replaced) but the problem went away... after replacing front brakes! So all along, it was the brakes (which was the reason I took it into the dealership the first place). So they charged me almost $2k for all the other work on top of the $100 deductible for the 7/70 warranty stuff, that never needed replacement. what a crock of sh*t 5 start dealer. ![]() |
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OK I'm back. The problem came back and it wasn't the brakes. I'm now so disgusted at this car I want to dump it at the stealership that fixed the car.
When I go above 60mph+, the shimmy and thumping starts, gets even worse when I have to go slight right at high speed. The dealership did not replace the right half axle shaft. Since it's still under the 7/70 powertrain warranty, should I just go and get it replaced? I would be out of ideas if that doesn't fix it. Any mechanics in metro Detroit area you guys can recommend? Thanks! ![]() |
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Unless the car is lowered more than a couple inches, I've not heard of a CV going bad without a torn boot. I'm at a loss. I think it's one of those things you'd have to get under the car and check yourself including all steering linkages and trim and such. Mechanics are a dime a dozen because of stuff like this. Most don't want to put proper attention to pleasing the customer, so will just throw money at the problem until it's fixed.
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