Changing wheel bearings, Press required?

[gevans]

Hello all. I have a 2003 Cruiser, the right front wheel bearing is showing some slop. I see behind the brake disc there are three or four bolts holding a plate on top of the wheel bearing. My question is, can I replace that bearing without a press? Does it just kinda fall out after I pull the plate? Or will I need to take it to a shop?
That will make the difference on whether I DIY or take it to the shop to start with.
Thanks all!

[CREWZIN]

I've read where some have done it themselves, but according to my Haynes manual:

Hub and Bearing Assembly (front) Replacement:

Due to the special tools and expertise required to press the hub and bearing from the steering knuckle, this job should be left to a professional mechanic.

[gevans]

Thanks, CREWZIN.
That's enough for me. I will (sigh) get up off the $$$ and pay my professional mechanic to do that job.

I just doesn't seem right the wheel bearings are bad after 75k, but I see from searching this ng that it is a common problem.

[CREWZIN]

When I first did the search to find your answer, I read quite a few responses and as I said some did it by themselves with just a vise, others had a professional do it or a dealer. Prices really varied so check around. The lowest I read about was someone's rear bearing going out at 39K.

[gevans]

This is the right front bearing. My mechanic said $250 to replace the bearing and hub, less if the hub is OK. That's with OEM parts. Normally I would think that's a good thing, but in this case...
I told him to order the parts.

[2004PTGT]

Make sure they don't cut corners and ruin your half-shafts (cv joints). I just had to replace mine because they cut corners replacing my wheel bearings...

[lakersfan1]

If you're willing to do the job yourself, why jump from doing it yourself to having a mechanic do all of it? All the wheel bearings I've ever done, I've just 1) ordered the bearing 2) took the hub out myself 3) took the hub down to the local machine shop with the bearing 4) pay $20 for thier 5 minutes to press the old bearing out and the new one in.

No need to get jacked for $250 for what really is a pretty simple job with a few basic tools. About the only 'strange' tool you'd need for this job is a pickle fork to pry the cv joint out ...... which many people oft make due without anyways.

[37plymouth]

The hub/bearing is an assembly that is not servicable individually. The parts are available from a parts store or dealer, so you can check prices. The price your mechanic gave you isn't bad, unless you're short on cash, then it might as well be a million.
First, jack the car up on the bad side, second, remove the wheel, third, remove the brake caliper adapter which will take off the caliper/pads/adapter as an assembly. Adaptor is held on with 2 18mm screws going into the knuckle. Tie the assembly up to the spring with a piece of wire so that the brake hose is not taking the weight. remove the brake rotor and set aside. The axle nut is 1 1/4" and comes off next, good time to have air tools. The hub/bearing assembly is held to the steering knuckle on the inboard side by 3 screws. Screws are kinda tough to get to without a u-joint socket. Loosen and back the screws off about 1/8", but don't remove them. Soak down the hub flange on the outboard side with wd or the equivalent, give it a little time to work, then use a punch/drift and hammer to tap on the heads of the inboard screws to push the hub out of the knuckle. Do not try to aid removal of the hub by prying on it against the brake rotor backing plate. The backing plate will bend easily, then you'll hear a bunch of nasty scraping noises when you go down the road, you'll blame me for bad info, then take it to your mechanic where he'll bend the sheetmetal back into place, and charge you $400 to punish you for doing it yourself.......Takes a few minutes with a hoist, the right tools, and a little experience. Will probably take you a bit longer. Good luck with it!
P.S. the hub is NOT a press fit to the knuckle, no press required. Corrosion usually makes it seem like a lot tighter fit than it really is.

[pt102]

I have an 04 pt and am unable to get hub out. 37 said not press fit, but a 2.5lb sledge has not been able to budge mine. 3 bolts loosened and no budge. Am I going wrong direction? (in to out) Should I be tapping on hub flange and not inside?

TIA for any info- pulling hair out here.

edit: removing from hub/bearing from spindle I should say

[37plymouth]

Sorry, been on vacation out of state. couldn't get the hub out of the knuckle?
Did you remove the axle nut from the axle? Soak the area between the knuckle and the bearing/ hub assembly with penetrating oil(WD or the like), then work it out. Learned long ago that for most things mechanical, if you have to beat it with a hammer, something else is wrong and you need to take a closer look. Hope it worked out, probably not much help a week after you posted.