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I just replaced the front right bearing at 36,800 miles. The bearing cost me about $40 and another $40 to remove and press the new bearing at Pepboys.
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I've been through not one but TWO front wheel bearings on my drivers side. It first went out at 55k miles.. then, just recently, it went out 74k, and was replaced under warranty (since the last one was replaced less than a year ago). I believe a loose tie rod was causing this. That has also been replaced. The mechanic, a good friend of mine, replaced it for $160 the first time, and as I said, it was free the second time.
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As someone who worked for one of the largest world wide bearing mfg. companies (based on Osaka Japan) I can talk with a bit of experience when it comes to wheel bearings. First off, todays (front wheel drive) wheel bearings are way more complicated assemblies than the simple tapered roller bearings from teh 70's and 80's. Today the bearings are usuall two or three piece desings with twin ball bearing raceways. The outer ring usually has mounting point to connect to the suspension parts, the inner ring (or spindle ring) is a large piece which rotates inside the bearing and has a large diameter flange which holds the wheel studs and is the surface the brake rotor mounts on. These assemblys are typically pre-loaded by a large nut on the CV axle shaft. Secondly, when it comes to bearing quality most of the big boys do it quite well (SKF, NTN, TIMKEN) the parts are super precise and high quality. However like any manufacturing operation - shit happens and less than perfect parts are made sometimes. All the bearings are vibration tested on super sensitive equipment so they KNOW when a batch is bad. As did we.... So when they have A1 grade parts they ALWAYS sell them to the OEM's which they are mfg. for. Everything else (production seconds) goes to the aftermarket distributors (Autozone, Napa, Car quest...etc.). In fact we were even known to send SUPER crappy parts to Mexican distributors for the mexican market. So my advice, if you want a good bearing is buy it from Chrysler. If you want a so so bearing that might start growling within 20 or 30k buy it from someone else. Interesting that so many of us with '03 - '04 PT's have had trouble. Mine has 62K now and the LF bearing is howling BAD - especially when it's a cold morning...it can drown out the engine sound. Chrysler probably knows there is a problem, but typically the OEM is only concerned with the problem if it shows up in significant numbers within the warranty period. Outside of that, unless its a safety issue....we are on our own. *rats* ![]() <b>UPDATE 5/20/09: LF bearing was bad and noisy since about 55k - Had appointment last week at shop to have the bearings done as well as brakes & installing polyurethane control arm, sway bar, and links bushings. Mechanic said when they did the test drive the LF was so quiet that they heard the RF was already going bad too! So I had them replace the RF side while the car was still in the shop. Total was $500 for the bearing replacement including parts. OUCH Chrysler! So both bearings done at 66K miles.</b>
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Base '03, Light Almond Pearl Metallic - Modified 2.4 na w/ported head, 10.4:1 compression ratio & Crane #10 camshafts - 4 speed - Energy Poly bushings - Napa ceramic pads & Ultra premium rotors - Rotora Stainless brake lines - Extreme Acc. Xenon HID 8k low & 6k high Dark taupe & Ivory Interior, Factory CD w/Sirius Stratus 4, Power Acoustik 840w 4ch, Boss 200w 2ch w 10" bandpass sub, 2 sets Phoniex Gold Matched comp. speakers Rolling stock: 16" SE A7w 225/50/16 Kuhmo Ecsta AST - One of the nicest Light Almond PT's you'll find
Last edited by THS_Cruiser03; 20 May 2009 at 01:00 pm. Reason: Updated poll information... |
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Thanks Andy, it doesn't look that much different than ours. I rotated so I could see the PT better thru the wind shield and saw the steering wheel on the opposite side that ours.
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![]() 2008 Silver Steel Metallic, Touring, NA, Sirius; Chromed door handles; lower grille; fog light surrounds; chrome front & rear bumpers strips; Airaid air filter; Bassani duals; Modesty Cover; Autolite AP5263 Platinum Plugs (.040); Crane Plug Wires; NAPA Ceramic pads; Blane hood struts; PTeazer Gas, Brake & Foot Rest Pedals, '05 Rear Step Pad, Stainless Door Sills, Llumar tint, "A" Piller chrome; APC Strut Bar |
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Not too bad. Cheapest mechanic was actually the dealer! Is hell freezing over?
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2003 Touring Edition. 65k
Here's to a long life and a happy one. A quick death and an easy one. A pretty girl and an honest one. A cold beer and another one! ![]() |
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in the middle of doing that right now my 2001 has 145000 miles and it was the passanger side front
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