Very confused. I am going to bleed the brake system as I just got new brakes put on and car has 94,000 miles.
I am reading the manual and I am confused.
It says to start at the master cylinder which I get but quoting from the manual it says"remove cap from master cylinder and fill reservoir with brake fluid"
1st question: Why am I adding new brake fluid to the old brake fluid in the master cylinder?
I am using a plastic bbleeder kit and once again to quote from the manual "have a clear container partially filled with clean brake fluid, begin by bleeding the master cylinder."
2nd question: Why does the reservoir that will be catching the old fluid have to be partially filled with new brake fluid?
If I am bleeding it I don't get why there should be fluid in it when you start.
Next problem. The manual says once I move on to the first wheel "place one end of the hose over the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in brake fluid in the container"
3rd question: Again why existing fluid in the container when you start to bleed.
Is this done to lessen the chance of air getting into the valve?
2005 Pt Cruiser Convertible Touring Edition
Jvc KD-R300 Dash Unit
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Re: Brake Bleeding
Yes. And you keep the master cylinder topped up for the same reason.
Re: Brake Bleeding
here is the easiest way.
Get a couple small containers of new Dot3 or Dot 4 fluid. Castrol has some
Get a turkey baster.
Open the reservoir and suck out all the old crappy fluid in the reservoir(why waste time pumping this crap through the lines and calipers/wheel cyinders.
Fill the reservoir with new fluid.
Get a helper.
Crack the bleeder on the passanger rear side. Note mopar penetrant sprayed on the bleeder valve helps get them loose, dont reef on them or you might brake them off and now have a big mess on your hands.
Anyhow crack the bleeder and have your helper push the brake pedal down and hold it. then close the bleeder and tell the helper to lift on the pedal. Repeat this process. Do this until clean clear fluid comes out. I just use a 10mm wrench and a small cup to catch the fluid as it squirts out when your helper( my wife is a great assistant presses the pedal. Oh show your wife the old crappy fluid, they will be more responsive next time to drop what they are doing to assist, especially when it is their car
Anyhow go back the reservoir and top it off, dont forget to put the cap back on too. Go to driver rear and repeat the process and then the pasanger front and driver front. Dont forget to keep the reservoir topped off. You can easily use 32 ounces of fluid to flush out all the old fluid.
I do this on every car I own every other year. Your brake hydraulics will last a lot longer and you wont have to worry about brake fade because of moisture. Also once or twice a year use the baster to suction out the fluid in the reservoir and top it off with fresh fluid. Note too on some of the stick cars the reservoir is also common for the clutch hydralics so having clean fluid in that will help. My 2003 they are seperate but I freshen up the brake fluid in that a couple times a year too. Brake fluid is cheap.
Doing this is a good maintenace practice.
Also buy a seperate turkey baster and use it for your power steering fluid. In this case it uses ATF+4. I freshen the PS reservoir a couple times a year too.
Your rack will thank you.
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90 Daytona ES 2.5 T1 A523
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Re: Brake Bleeding
Yep, air is bad. Your pushing out the old fluid so you need to make sure the M.C is full else you'll be burping air out.
Adding fluid to your drain bottle lessens the chance your suck up air that way. Honestly I've never done that and never had a problem with it.
Bleeding breaks is a simple job and after you've gone and done it you'll see how easy it is. It's a two person job for sure.
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