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Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

 
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Old 09 Apr 2012, 09:04 pm
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Default Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

Hello all (again)

Thank you all for the help on my front end thread - I got everything sorted out. The last thing I was going to do today was replace the back brake shoes. Did the driver's side - no problems whatsoever. Did the passenger side, everything went on fine, then went to adjust them to feel only a slight drag, but found the wheel wouldn't budge! I backed off the shoes as loose as they would go, and still the wheel wouldn't move.

So, I got a new drum (new drum with new shoes) and same problem. I adjust the shoes with the wheel off and just the drum on, got them adjusted good, then loosened them up just a hair, put the wheel back on loosely, an gave it a spin - the wheel spun freely. Tightened the lug nuts down, and the wheel won't budge. The tighter the lug nuts go, the harder the wheel is to move. As far as I can tell, the drum is not touching anything it shouldn't be touching. It's not rubbing against the back plate (the peice behind the shoes, think its called the support plate.) And its barely rubbing against the shoes. Just for giggles I loosened the shoes ALL THE WAY, there was 1/2 inch between the shoes and the drum on the inside, and still once the wheel is tighened down it refuses to budge. I even took everything apart and put the old shoes and old drum back on, and it still sticks.

I also checked to see that the parking cable was not stuck on - it isn't.

Could it be a bad wheel hub? I mean if the hub is not on straight I could see that causing problems, but there is no bearing noise or play. I don't think the support plate is bent, as I have never beat on it or pried on it when removing the drum - just the drum itself. I have attached a pic of the shoes below - is this installed correctly?

My Step-father said to get some flat washer and install between the bearing hub and drum, and if that fixed it somewhere the drum is getting hung up.

Sorry for the crappy video, see photos below:










Click on the video to watch it - sorry for the less than HD quality.


Should I replace the hub? It's 50$ at napa - hate to replace it and have the same problem... Sadly, I don't know if it was dragging before I changed the brakes, since I jacked the car up with the parking brake on, loosenned the lug nuts, then took the parking brake off to take off the wheel and drum. While the drum was hard to get off (it wasn't as hard as the driver's side) it came off with no problems - just a little beating with hammer and pulling on it, and off it came.

Last edited by eightball; 09 Apr 2012 at 09:17 pm.
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Old 09 Apr 2012, 09:45 pm
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Default Re: Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

Spin the hub and see if there is any wobble if not put the drum on an install lugs an see if it will turn. If it doesn't you might flip the drum over and bolt it to the hub with the inside facing out and spin to see if it has excess wobble. I didn't see any rub marks on the backing plate.
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Old 09 Apr 2012, 10:33 pm
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Default Re: Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

only thing I could guess is you have adjuster in backwards,
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Old 10 Apr 2012, 02:05 pm
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Default Re: Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

Quote:
Originally Posted by UptownSport View Post
only thing I could guess is you have adjuster in backwards,
That was my thought - however I fliped evrything around it didn't look right. This is the passenger side - does it look backwards in the pictures?
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Old 10 Apr 2012, 02:20 pm
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Default Re: Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

Ugh, looking at those photos reminds me of my '66 Marlin. First off, and just my suggestions, I would clean the crap out of those hub and brake assemblies. Those springs look loaded up with goo, the caliper looks atrocious. I'd get some simple green or other degreaser and clean that all up. You're not going to hurt your brakes. Try to get as much of that rust and crap off as you can.

Then gently peel the rubber boot off each end of the wheel cylinder to make sure it's clean and holding the grease. I gently cleaned them and pressed on each side to make sure it moved freely.

Here's is a very good video on doing all of this work and gives great ideas on places to check. In this video, Eric mentions the backing plate, makes sense that your shoes can be up against it and squeaking:


Another item to note, he mentions that you should replace all that minor hardware, springs, etc. I agree with that too!

Last edited by Chromenut; 10 Apr 2012 at 02:22 pm.
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Old 10 Apr 2012, 05:19 pm
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Default Re: Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

Fixed it!!! Turns out one side of the wheel cylinder was frozen and wouldn't retract. Seems it was frozen up just enough that the drum would slide on ok, but once tightened caused the drum to drag on the shoe. Put a new wheel cylinder in and she spins like new! Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 10 Apr 2012, 07:53 pm
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Default Re: Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

Glad you got it figured out!

I would replaces the wheel cylinder on the other side as well, chances are that one is on it's way out too...
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Old 06 Jul 2012, 08:52 am
Kew Kew is offline
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Default Re: Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

I have the same problem i.e. Rear Brake drum doesn’t rotate freely when wheel nuts are tightened by wrench but rotate freely when wheel nuts are hand tightened.

The car is a Mondeo 2.0i 1988 (MK2) hatchback (only 40,000 miles on the clock); and failed MOT for what was described as “binding rear drum on the passenger side”.

You can see the photo of the hardware inside the drum on the following link.

http://i53.tinypic.com/14kvmx.jpg

I removed the wheel and removed the drum and inspected the brake shoes and back-plate and inside the drum but everything seemed to be in perfect order and condition. There was a small amount of brake-shoe dust in there which I cleaned with compressed air then checked the lube on the back-plate and for any sign of scratch and checked the movement of the shoes and the functioning of the wheel cylinder and handbrake, and everything seemed to be fine.

I put the drum and wheel back on the car and tightened the nuts by hand and then rotated the wheel, it rotated freely but when I tightened the nuts with the wheel wrench I noticed the wheel started to resist to rotation and the more I tightened the nuts the more resistance to rotation was build-up in the wheel.

To eliminate the factors that could create the problem, I disengaged the hand-brake cable and took out the brake-shoes then put the drum back on the empty casing and tightened the nuts by hand, then rotating the drum by hand. It rotated freely. Then I tightened each nut a quarter of a turn and noticed the tighter the nuts get the more resistance to rotation is build up.

I must stress that bearing is in a very good condition and there is no sound of friction when I rotate the drum, and there is no visible sign of friction on any parts.

So the question is “how tightening the wheel nuts can cause the problem”?
I appreciate expert opinions only (not guesses and maybe this and maybe that!).

Last edited by Kew; 06 Jul 2012 at 08:54 am.
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Old 06 Jul 2012, 09:05 am
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Default Re: Rear Brake drum binding when wheel lug nut tightened

Sounds exactly like the post right above yours. The same advise given by the forum members that answered up should be a good step towards fixing yours.

If not, there's a Mondeo forum UK that covers the year of your car (1993-2001). Maybe someone on a forum that deals in your make of car can better help you with your problem.

Ford Mondeo Mk1 / Mk2 (1993-2001) - TalkFord.com

Last edited by CREWZIN; 06 Jul 2012 at 09:09 am.
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