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Old 15 Oct 2014, 12:39 pm
Clayman1000x's Avatar
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Question Power Steering Issue now

Hi, how has everyone been? I have a leak from my power steering system. I located the leak to an area by the left inner tie rod, coming out of this boot. I wondering if this is repairable using this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/me...LeAaAvQL8P8HAQ , or will I need a new rack?
My mechanic told me the right inner tie rod felt wobbly, lol, but declined to call it bad. It basically leaks out quickly, I can fill it and run without sqealing or turning hard for a few miles, but then need to refill again. Its getting me to work and home but thats about it. I was wondering if anyone knew of a video or sticky on what I need to fix this. I can get a rack n pinion with inner tie rods for $158, how hard is it to change?
I just saw these: rack and pinion or tie rod ends, Anyone replace their rack and pinion themselves??
Will that replacement boot work to fix my leaking?
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Old 15 Oct 2014, 12:44 pm
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Default Re: Power Steering Issue now

The quick boot is really a temporary fix.

To decide if you should start saving pennies and shopping for a rebuilt rack you should let your "trusted" mechanic determine this. Or go to a shop that specializes in chassis repair.

Without physically being able to examine, test and check a few things NO ONE can accurately give you definitive answer on a forum.
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Old 15 Oct 2014, 06:22 pm
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Default Re: Power Steering Issue now

I'm thinking if you are losing that much power steering fluid you got a pretty bad leak.

If you have a place to do it and tools to for the job I would do it. I helped my younger brother do the rack and pinion on his step daughters Neon and it ain't that much different.

Replacing a rack and pinion is not all that hard to do. About the only special tool you might need would be ferrel nut wrenches to remove the power steering hoses from the rack but if your careful you can most likely use regular wrenches.

You will need a good jack, jack stands, blocks for the rear wheels because you will have to support the front end off the ground to get the parts out. You really don't have to remove the wheels, I did just to have more room while working. Also, I only popped the outer tie rods out of the steering knuckle because I was replacing them anyway.

There are only two bolts that actually hold the rack and pinion to the frame of the car. There is a shaft that goes to the steering column and of course the tie rod ends. The little connector to the steering shaft is a true bugger to get apart. There is a roll pin in it and you don't have a lot of room to swing a hammer at a punch to drive it out.

I was able to use a motorcycle chain breaker to start it moving then finished the job with my pin punch and a little tack hammer. I was ready to get the cutting torch but instead walked away for a while and bandaged my hands and had a nice cup of coffee, once I did that I was cooled down enough to take the time to do it closer to right.

I bought a special tool for replacing inner tie rod ends but you wont need it, you can put all your tie rods on the rack with regular wrenches while it is still out of the car. It will be easier to put zip ties or stainless steel hose clamps on the boots too. The original clamps must be destroyed to remove the boot.

When I had to replace the rack and pinion on my HHR I did not have to bother with power steering lines because it has electric power steering but I did have to remove the rest of that stuff.

I was unable to find anyone who sold new or rebuilt rack and pinions for my car when I did the job so I ended up getting a used one from a seller on eBay.

The seller included new inner and outer tie rod ends at no charge to me because he felt that the ones on the rack and pinion were a bit loose. I thought the ones on the rack were fine but since he had included them in the box I put them on.

After the fix I took the car to Firestone because I had already paid for lifetime alignment with them. I was shocked when they said all they had to do was tweak it in a bit on the passengers side. I just used a tape measure when I put the parts on. The replacement rack has been in the car for going on two years now and has been no problem at all.
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Last edited by KA9VQF; 15 Oct 2014 at 06:49 pm.
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Old 15 Oct 2014, 07:34 pm
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Default Re: Power Steering Issue now

If the rack gets internally contaminated keep in mind it is not a serviceable part. If the internal orifice becomes restricted your power assist will fail.
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Last edited by NitroPT; 16 Oct 2014 at 09:22 am. Reason: removed last line that appeared insulting
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Old 16 Oct 2014, 07:38 am
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Default Re: Power Steering Issue now

Thanks for all your help everyone, I decided to just go with the whole R n P change since they come with inner tie rod ends, both partsgeek and rock auto have them for about the same price, doesn't look too hard to install except for that pin I keep reading about. I've already changed the right control arm n bushings, both outer tie rods, bushings on the left side, bearings on both sides, even a seal kit, i would have to take it all out anyway, so, might as well get a new one. I just can't figure out which one I need, I can't seem to find this "body code plate" to tell me either:
"with Standard Steering (SBA); Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" are found on the "Body Code" plate"
or
"with Firm Feel Steering (SBB); Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" are found on the "Body Code" plate"
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Old 16 Oct 2014, 08:15 am
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Default Re: Power Steering Issue now

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayman1000x View Post
Thanks for all your help everyone, I decided to just go with the whole R n P change since they come with inner tie rod ends, both partsgeek and rock auto have them for about the same price, doesn't look too hard to install except for that pin I keep reading about. I've already changed the right control arm n bushings, both outer tie rods, bushings on the left side, bearings on both sides, even a seal kit, i would have to take it all out anyway, so, might as well get a new one. I just can't figure out which one I need, I can't seem to find this "body code plate" to tell me either:
"with Standard Steering (SBA); Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" are found on the "Body Code" plate"
or
"with Firm Feel Steering (SBB); Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" are found on the "Body Code" plate"
Look inside the driver door. Should be a sticker near the latch point on the door.
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Old 16 Oct 2014, 01:10 pm
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Default Re: Power Steering Issue now

The sticker is on the end of the driver's side door near the latch and looks like this:

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Old 17 Oct 2014, 06:32 am
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Default Re: Power Steering Issue now

Quote:
Originally Posted by Handy_Cruiser View Post
The sticker is on the end of the driver's side door near the latch and looks like this:

I looked at that sticker, plus the one on the pass side door and the plate on the pass side firewall, none of them state "SBB or SBA". I must be looking for the wrong code then, how can I find which is the right code to use. I just went out and looked again, that code is not there.
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Last edited by Clayman1000x; 17 Oct 2014 at 06:52 am. Reason: confirmation
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Old 17 Oct 2014, 07:09 am
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Default Re: Power Steering Issue now

I just found this, is this the right code for me? Does anyone know what the real difference is between the 2, can't I use either one.
http://www.obd2repair.com/download/A...car%20list.pdf
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