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HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

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  • 7 Post By xwing777
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 14 Jun 2015, 06:49 pm
xwing777's Avatar
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Default HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

Didnt see a how to for this and since i just did the wifes PT today thought i would snap a few pics and write up some tips/guide:

A few items that help a good bit is a shop press (20 Ton Shop Press - Hydraulic Shop Presses on Sale), bearing/seal driver set (10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set) and an air compressor with a good air impact gun.

Begin by scotching the car, and jack up one side at a time then place jackstands under pinch weld like so:

After removing wheel, the remove the brake caliper, and the caliper bracket (use a hanger/tie wrap/bungy etc.. to hang it on the coil spring so it doesnt stress the line). Then the rotor.

You will then remove the tie rod (remove nut and tap with hammer)

At this point remove cotter pin, and remove large nut from end of axle. Then the bolts from lower strut (they are splined so only nut turns off, you will need to tap the bolt out) Carefully push in the axle and pull down spindle. There is just enough clearance without removing the axle shaft and you can get to the ball joint bolt eaiser.

The spindale should lift up and out, if not you can wedge a screw driver to pry it open slightly to pull off ball joint.

Once removed from car, you will need to loosen the 3 13mm bolts holding the cover over the bearing. You cant remove them completely as they will hit the hub/studs but when pressing the old hub out the bearing sometimes comes out hitting the flange.

Carefully watch and make sure the old bearing isnt bending the cover and remove bolts as you get enough room.

After pressed out showing cover:

Now prepare wheel bearing and new hub (i used new hubs since they are cheap and lessens the risk of failure due to worn areas. The bearings i prefer are TIMKEN Part # SET49 (rockauto $25 per side and DORMAN hubs Part # 930300 $15 per side)

Press new bearing into the spindle (pay close attention to keeping it straight and use a bearing driver so you dont press inner and/or seal out)

Once it has been fully seated (there is a lip on the inside that will stop the bearing from going further), you can bolt the cover back on.

Using a large block of wood, place the new hub studs down. You can then lay the spindle with new bearing installed on top. Make sure it has clearance in the press and lined up correctly before pressing it down.

It will also bottom out and should be flush with the bearing. Check and make sure it turns freely and re-assemble parts in reverse order. Torque everything back to specs and enjoy the noise free sound your car now has.
2004 Almond GT, autostick - Only car shows, some weekends but with Stage1!
2003 cranberry 5 speed GT - Fishing with a sleeper Stage3 setup!
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 14 Jun 2015, 07:03 pm
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Cool Re: HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

nice write up

2001 PT Cruiser 5-speed; 1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass S; 1990 Chevy 454SS; 1995 Caprice Classic woody
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Old 14 Jun 2015, 07:16 pm
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Thumbs up Re: HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

Very good HOW-TO, Thanks
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Old 14 Jun 2015, 07:21 pm
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Default Re: HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

Very nice write up!

I wish I had seen this before yesterday

I replace mine yesterday, but I had to take it to a shop to have the old bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in!

Only a minor casualty, as the knuckle was very, very stuck, and then it wasn't!

Thanks for the photos!

It is good to have an end to journey towards; but it is the journey that matters in the end. ~Ursula K. LeGuin

2005 PT Cruiser (Base Model) Convertible - 5 Speed
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Old 15 Jun 2015, 04:09 pm
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Default Re: HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

Imagine what Firestone would charge for a job like that
E1 Turbo, 3 Bar Map~Tip, 888/1025cc Duster's Injectors, Stage 1 PCM, Composite Intake Manifold, Airbox Mod With Drop In, Ported Exhaust Manifold, Walbro 255, 3 Inch Catless, Poly Mounts, Blue Plate, DCR Oil Mod, DSP, AEM A/F, FM WGA, N2mb Electronic Boost Controller, Power Demon ATX, Duster's CMR Tune, E85 Powered, Cross Driiled Rotors, BTG Springs, Mopar Ground Effects Kit, 5K HID lights and fogs, LED Tails...3080 lbs in race trim.300WHP~345 Ft Lbs Torque @ 16PSI...Now boosting 19PSI, WHP And Torque numbers coming soon.
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Old 22 Aug 2015, 05:59 pm
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Default Re: HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

Dear God, the name Firestone spoken in a post about auto repair!
A quick Firestone story:
When delivering a rebuilt computer to a local Firestone shop, my driver brought the part to the mechanic.
The mechanic was puzzled and called the Store Manager saying the car didn't need a computer.
The Manager's response, "Yes, it does, sign the ticket!".

Case closed.
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Old 22 Aug 2015, 07:04 pm
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Default Re: HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

Thanks for the How To!
2002 PT Cruiser Limited, 2.4L, Automatic Transmission, Metallic Silver Paint
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Old 08 Jan 2016, 08:24 pm
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Default Re: HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

Thanks for the write-up!

I had a shop press the bearing and hubs for me.

Simple job. Only hitch was that I did not have a 32mm socket for the spindle nut...$5 at HF. Also that nut is spec'd at 160 ft/lbs when reinstalling. My wrench only went to 150. So switched wrenches and just gave it a touch more love.
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Old 16 May 2016, 08:26 am
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Posts: 63
Default Re: HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

Originally Posted by xwing777 View Post
Now prepare wheel bearing and new hub (i used new hubs since they are cheap and lessens the risk of failure due to worn areas. The bearings i prefer are TIMKEN Part # SET49 (rockauto $25 per side and DORMAN hubs Part # 930300 $15 per side)
Two questions:
1) What year model and production date were these parts for? Searches indicate variances in hubs, bearings, etc. at odd times in production runs creating some confusion and teeth gnashing.

Mine is a 2002 [ Production Date: 11/01 ]

Have only checked RA and see their listing for the bearing you use, but they also list several others and it isn't at all clear which is correct for my application. Any help with that would be appreciated. Will be checking other sources.

2) The PT Shop Manual specifically calls for removal of three lug studs in order to remove the hub from the knuckle. Neither you nor other Forum write ups mention having to do this. What's up with that? Anything to do with the cover and it's bolts, an issue which you resolve via removing the cover bolts incrementally while pressing the hub out?

I note that you use a couple 'X' metal blocks and wood 2x in order to support the knuckle when pressing out vs the bearing splitting tool, as suggested in the PT Shop Manual pgs. 2-6 to 2-8, which obviously have to just happen to be the right dimensions and oriented properly in order to provide a level perch for the knuckle, right? Does using a bearing splitting tool have anything to do with requiring removing the three studs? If I had access to this tool wouldn't it eliminate having to gather up a group of properly sized fixtures work as well and be easier? Any downsides to using splitter?

If not too expensive I would likely enlist a shop to do the pressing r'n'r of the hub and bearing. Would they likely be willing to use your somewhat less labor intensive method.

OTOH I may have access to a shop w/ press and bearing / race driver set, hopefully a splitter or other fixture for support, and do it myself.

BTW, nice write up and images, better than most... thanks for your effort.

'ol corps rac'r
Rac'n Class of '69
Car #69
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 16 May 2016, 08:47 am
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Default Re: HOW TO: Front Wheel bearing/hub replacement

Thanks. I've added your HOW TO to the others in the Tech & Performance part of the forum.
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