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I went to replace rear pads and rotors today. Removing the caliper and pads, no problem. Removing the rotors, very little problem.
Started on passenger side. Getting the new rotor on was no issue but when I spun the wheel I was getting a metallic scraping sound, which is what prompted the job to begin with, thought I was hearing break wear indicators. Anyway, I managed to get it reassembled. A little worried about how it was going to turn out. The drivers side was going smoothly until I went to put on the new rotor. Not happening. It seems that the parking brake adjusted out/tighter/whatever when I removed the old rotor and now it won't fit. I now believe that the parking brake rubbing is the metallic scraping sound I wish to eliminate. After looking thru the haynes manual, I have a plan and I hope it's not crazy. I went out and bought new hub/bearing assemblies, which need to be removed and should be replaced when messing with the parking brake. My plan is to remove the parking brake shoes which should allow me to get the disc rotors back on and have working rear brakes. I have never used the parking brake and can't imaging that I ever will. Is there any gotcha that's going to spoil this plan? Last edited by konadave; 16 Jun 2015 at 11:01 pm. |
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You could try to do it right and adjust the shoes so the new rotors fit.
But if you are intent on removing them, you might consider just prying off the friction material from the shoes and just leave everything in place. That would give you the required clearance for the new rotors. As well, if you ever needed to pull the parking brake in an emergency situation, there would at least be something there that might help, instead of nothing. |
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I missed the section in the haynes manual on adjusting the parking brake. Just found it now with you mentioning an adjustment. Thanks, I will definitely consider that.
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Doing the adjustment didn't adjust anything.
Trying to remove the friction material from the shoes wasn't working and was causing the whole parking brake assembly to shift out of center. I ended up completely removing the parking brake, it's so rusty that it was basically disintegrating as I took it apart. New hub/bearing assembly installed, new rotor, new pads. Went on test ride and initially I would feel a little movement in the brake pedal when beginning to accelerate and then a few seconds later TRAC OFF would light. After stopping for 10-15 seconds the light went out. This happened around five times or so and then stayed on, then BRAKE and ABS lit. No codes. The car brakes fine. Any ideas why this is happening. |
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What year is your car? Did the replacement hubs have the proper tone rings for the abs wheel sensors? Did you unplug or remove or damage the wires going to the back of the backing plates? You need those sensors connected for the abs and traction control to work properly.
You need a proper obd2 scanner that can tell you the codes for abs. Some scanners can't tell this info, and the 'key dance' will not either. |
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2001
This is the hub assembly I installed: Driveworks Wheel Hub Assembly NT512167: Advance Auto Parts. Says it's an exact fit for 2001 PT Cruiser. Did not unplug, remove, or damage any wires. Been driving around more running some errands and the brakes are working normally. It's seems there's a 50/50 chance that it will try the traction thing when accelerating from a stop, and when it does TRAC flashes above the odometer, that's when I feel the vibration in the pedals, and it's trying to do something with the front wheels. |
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I believe for 2001, with disc brakes, you need the type that has a gear type tone ring instead of the slot type like you bought.
This one: Driveworks Hub & Bearing Assembly NT512168: Advance Auto Parts You might compare the old one to the new one you bought to see if it is identical or if you need the one above. Last edited by myckee; 17 Jun 2015 at 03:43 pm. |
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