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Old 17 Aug 2015, 07:01 am
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Default Brakes question cooked

So I replaced my cooked brakes and rotors (1st time). The inner pad was low but the outer was ok. What causes this? Do I need a alignment? I got ceramic brakes which I've never had. I'm hearing a squeaking noise and smelled something. I don't notice the brakes feeling any different as far as not having to push down and they don't seem touchy. I didn't drive it that far though. A friend said to break them in by going 30mph and stopping a little fast and the same for like 50mph. Is that necessary?

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Old 17 Aug 2015, 07:17 am
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Default Re: Brakes question cooked

Quote:
Originally Posted by ew55 View Post
So I replaced my cooked brakes and rotors (1st time). The inner pad was low but the outer was ok. What causes this? Do I need a alignment? I got ceramic brakes which I've never had. I'm hearing a squeaking noise and smelled something. I don't notice the brakes feeling any different as far as not having to push down and they don't seem touchy. I didn't drive it that far though. A friend said to break them in by going 30mph and stopping a little fast and the same for like 50mph. Is that necessary?

These are not cooked. Look normal. The wear of the pads have nothing to do with alignment. It's about the pads movement. The part tha hold the pads themselves needs to be cleaned. So the pads slid in and out freely by hand. The bolts or pins that the caliper moves on needs to be cleaned and lubed. So it also slides freely. This keep even pressure on both pads and that gives you even wear on both sides and both pads.
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Old 17 Aug 2015, 09:44 am
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Default Re: Brakes question cooked

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Originally Posted by Busted_PT View Post
These are not cooked. Look normal. The wear of the pads have nothing to do with alignment. It's about the pads movement. The part tha hold the pads themselves needs to be cleaned. So the pads slid in and out freely by hand. The bolts or pins that the caliper moves on needs to be cleaned and lubed. So it also slides freely. This keep even pressure on both pads and that gives you even wear on both sides and both pads.
So my new brakes pads shouldn't squeak? Pretty sure I cleaned the pins but didn't lube. Does this mean I have to take the tires off and do it?
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Old 17 Aug 2015, 10:06 am
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Default Re: Brakes question cooked

If your have them: Make sure the anti-rattle/squeal clips are put on the right way when putting everything back together. They CAN be put on wrong.

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Old 17 Aug 2015, 10:49 am
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Default Re: Brakes question cooked

Squeaking can also be caused by the pad against the piston, depends where you are located, I've been lubing the back of the pad or using anit squeak for brakes, its red like silicone
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Old 18 Aug 2015, 10:50 pm
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Default Re: Brakes question cooked

The rotors and pads in your picture don't look all that bad to me. I probably would have tossed in a new set of pads and called it a day.

Its not real hard to remove the Pins in the brake calipers and clean them or glob some lube on them and replace them.

A lot of the time the rubber bits on them really is bad and you don't really notice that so much if you don't take them apart. I like to use a silver bearing antisieze product directly on the pins and some in the holes in the bracket then the normal break caliper grease you usually get at the auto parts store.

Once you have your new pads in it really is best if you 'bed' them, Its not real hard. What I do is drive aways out of town using the brakes like I normally would then climb Wademan's hill and turn around at the scenic overlook near the top of the hill.

The hill is probably a half mile or so long so I usually get plenty of opportunity to use the brakes on the way out of town, depending on traffic I can run up to around 40 MPH and lightly put the brakes on several times. This warms things up and starts the bedding process.

On the way back down the hill I will let it roll a bit faster and put the brakes on lightly then harder and finally come almost to a full stop. I generally do this at least three times on the way back to my house.

There may be some folks on this site that don't think this is the way to go with bedding new break pads but so far {since I moved here a tad over 30 years ago} it has worked for me.
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Last edited by KA9VQF; 18 Aug 2015 at 10:54 pm.
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Old 20 Aug 2015, 07:18 am
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Default Re: Brakes question cooked

Going to hopefully fix this today. So just put the grease on the pins. Some guy at AutoZone told me to put a little on the back of the pads.
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Old 20 Aug 2015, 01:40 pm
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Default Re: Brakes question cooked

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Originally Posted by ew55 View Post
Going to hopefully fix this today. So just put the grease on the pins. Some guy at AutoZone told me to put a little on the back of the pads.
If you look at the iron bracket that holds the shoe in place you will sometimes find the shoe has worn a groove where it hits the most. I clean this up with a small file or grinder and add grease.
MAKE SURE your pads fit loosely, they are bound to rust in Ohio and bind up
like here in PA. I clean and grease the pins and they should also slide freely.
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Old 20 Aug 2015, 03:48 pm
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Default Re: Brakes question cooked

I recently had a caliper fail on my PT Cruiser. When I took it apart because the pads were totally ground down to metal and the rotor was also ground up I took the bracket off to inspect things and push the piston back into the rotor.

The grease that had been on the pins was still pliant just a little old and sticky so I cleaned that off and put in new disk break grease that I picked up when I bought the other parts.

There is a rubber boot that covers the piston so it is a little on the hard to see side. What I did not know is the piston was rusted and had a ring of rust around it that would not allow the piston to easily go back into the rest of the caliper like its supposed to.

So, I put a new set of pads and a replacement rotor on the car. A few weeks later in noticed abnormal wear on the pads. I took things apart again and pulled the rubber off the piston and found that it was bad.

The pins that go into the stationary bracket were quite clean and the grease that I put in there was still looking good.

The replacement caliper came with two little pad holders that go on either end of the pads. These help keep the pads from rattling and making other noise. I put a fairly light coat of black lithium grease on these. The idea is the grease will help keep them from rusting.

I also put a light coat of the same grease on the back side of the brake pads with the idea that it will help keep things from rusting.

There are some folks who figure the grease will just cause more brake dust to collect. They may be right but for me it seems to help me get things back together a little easer.

At the auto parts stores I buy stuff from, the clerk almost always asks if I want to buy the little packs of brake lube they have by the cash register. I almost always decline as I have bulk packs of what I want to use at home. You may want to buy them though.
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Last edited by KA9VQF; 24 Aug 2015 at 11:27 am.
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Old 21 Aug 2015, 06:58 am
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Default Re: Brakes question cooked

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Originally Posted by CREWZIN View Post
If your have them: Make sure the anti-rattle/squeal clips are put on the right way when putting everything back together. They CAN be put on wrong.

I have the clips in the right the way but look like they hit the side of the rotor. I forgot to take a picture of that. I put this Disc brake queit on the back of pads and clips. Fried that works on cars told me to do that. The pins looked still greased up so I didn't put any on them. Also are the pads supposed to be hard to put in? I have to use a screwdriver to get them in.

Should the clips be flush at the top?



See how the outer spring thing is bent. I bent it back so might be ok now.

I put a little too much on one of the pads. I didn't put them on right away is that ok. Seems like it dried quick and doesn't even seem like it will help. Damn crap is sticky. lol


Took the pads out and greased them up. With this.



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