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Lower Control Arms

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04 Jun 2019, 05:03 pm
Macgyverman1123's Avatar
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Default Lower Control Arms

Hey guys!!

I'm looking to replace my front control arms soon, they really need it!

It looks relatively straight forward and I'm sure I can do it, since this isn't my first time to the ball, but at every online guide and video I see, there's always some Neanderthal cutting a giant hole in the floor to get out the vertical stud. This seems absolutely ridiculous to me, is there any way to get around it? From what I understand, this is done when the vertical caged nut either breaks off in the frame or is stripped. Could this potentially be avoided by hitting it with some penetrating fluid or maybe heating it with a torch to ease the removal?

:Beer:
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Old 04 Jun 2019, 06:32 pm
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Cool Re: Lower Control Arms

RockAuto has a MOOG kit at a good price:

MOOG control arms
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Old 04 Jun 2019, 08:06 pm
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Default Re: Lower Control Arms

I live in the rust belt of Western Pennsylvania, when I changed the LCAs on my 2001 the left side captured nut which is the rear vertical bolt spun in the frame and the only way to get to it was cutting a hole in the floor under the brake pedal. I could not budge the bolt from below until it spun the nut.
Being that you a bit south you might not have a problem. To heat the nut you would have to pull the carpet back and cut the hole. I drilled a small hole above where the bolt goes through LCA into the frame and tried lubricant to no avail. Ended up having to cut with a sawzall the bolt to remove it. Right side came out without much struggling
Good luck on this adventure.
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Old 05 Jun 2019, 07:25 am
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Default Re: Lower Control Arms

even in Arizona (re-no rust) 9 times out of ten when we swap any components underneath big rigs or equipment- shocks springs axles ect- I don't even bother trying. bolts and nuts get cut preferably with a angle grinder...
of course we have a wall of every nut and bolt in every size ever made...but trust me- Chrysler has a pile of this crap at your dealer...

but ive never done the arms on the pt so I have no clue- just telling you how I approach things. some bolts I deal with are tourqed to 500+ ft-lbs!= cut it...

edit- remember your dealer is more than happy to deliver to your house. a lot of people forget this... that kid in the delivery truck is just picking his nose!
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Old 05 Jun 2019, 09:41 am
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Default Re: Lower Control Arms

I didn't have a problem replacing mine. The most difficult is getting the proper torque on the long bolts when you reassemble it. IIRC the torque is supposed to be 180 ft.lb. My torque wrench only goes to 150. I'd suggest you just heat them up, get the socket on there along with a cheater bar and try to tighten it just a little bit first, then try removing them. Mine came out with some effort, but I don't have any impact tools. If you're using an impact, I'd highly recommend trying to break them loose with hand tools first just in case they're rusty.
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Old 05 Jun 2019, 12:14 pm
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Default Re: Lower Control Arms

If you try heating from below the heat will catch the bushing on fire because the nut is about two inches above the head of the bolt head. when I cut the floor open, there is an indentation where the nut is located, I just cut a three sided hole with air chisel , if you need to.. Heat the nut not the bolt.

I just removed two exhaust flange bolts that have been on since 2006 by heating the nut cherry red much to my suprise.
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Addicted to Mopar You can tell how old I am..
65 Dodge Coronet 6 cyl 2dr Post
66 Ply Satellite with 273 engine swap to 69 340 4spd
70 340 4spd Dart Swinger "Those were the days my friend"
73 Charger SE
Had a few Vetts on the way 69, 85
Several Neons some flips
01 Sebring flip
Cruiser's 01, 220K Gone to a new home
Cruiser 03 133K Gone to a new home
Cruiser 06 110K Project Gone to new Home
Cruiser 05 Ltd 120,809 bought with broken belt Oct2015
May 16 Resurrected to once again roam the streets.

20 Miles South Of Pittsburgh
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Old 10 Jun 2019, 08:23 pm
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Default Re: Lower Control Arms

Mine came off in a cloud of red dust and no spinning of the captured nut <whew> even though I bought a grinder/cutter just in case.



I used my Milwaukee corded impact wrench to loosen the bolt. I think a sudden blast of an impact wrench is better than a slowly increasing torque of a breaker bar. That slow torque can cause the buried nut to break loose from the housing. Unfortunately there is no way to seep penetrating oil from the bottom of the LCA. It can only come from the top and you have to cut through the floor to get to it.

Even though this PT lived most of it's life in San Diego and probably never saw road salts, the bolt had a lot of rust on it and was solidly fused into the body. However, when I pulled the splash shields off the fender, I found a lot of wet sand that probably kept the rust growing over the years.



Good luck on your job.
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