Brake Rotor Warped????

[soonercruiser]

Started getting a little rubbing noise in the driver's side front brake a few weeks ago.
That squeak became a grinding rub noise this last week.
It is coincides with every wheel rotation; and worst when the brakes are applied; and turning.

Bought a PowerStop Kit with ceramic pads and drilled, slotted rotors a year ago, and installed.
Wheel bearings replace about 8 months ago.
New tires, wheels, and alignment 6 months ago.

I took the brakes apart on the driver's front early last week, and everything looks fine, tight, and no abnormal wear.

So, my assumption is I have a warped rotor.

[Handy_Cruiser]

Originally Posted by soonercruiser

Started getting a little rubbing noise in the driver's side front brake a few weeks ago.
That squeak became a grinding rub noise this last week.
It is coincides with every wheel rotation; and worst when the brakes are applied; and turning.

Bought a PowerStop Kit with ceramic pads and drilled, slotted rotors a year ago, and installed.
Wheel bearings replace about 8 months ago.
New tires, wheels, and alignment 6 months ago.

I took the brakes apart on the driver's front early last week, and everything looks fine, tight, and no abnormal wear.

So, my assumption is I have a warped rotor.

If you remove the caliper and stick a measuring stick up to the rotor supported by the caliper bracket and then rotate the rotor, you may be able to see if it's warped and even get a rough measurement of how much.

[soonercruiser]

Originally Posted by Handy_Cruiser

If you remove the caliper and stick a measuring stick up to the rotor supported by the caliper bracket and then rotate the rotor, you may be able to see if it's warped and even get a rough measurement of how much.

Wheel is the only thing holding the rotor on.
So when the caliper is off it tends to wobble.
Prolly not going to be of benefit.

What are the symptoms of a bad caliper?

[Alfie1]

If you wanted to try it though, you could fit two or three of the wheel nuts through larger nuts or a few washers or similar as spacers to replicate the wheel being on there and holding the rotor on tightly to see if it is warped or not.

[Handy_Cruiser]

Originally Posted by soonercruiser

Wheel is the only thing holding the rotor on.
So when the caliper is off it tends to wobble.
Prolly not going to be of benefit.

What are the symptoms of a bad caliper?

Put the lug nuts back on. I believe even the chrome capped ones will screw all the way down. I normally do at least one when changing break pads.

[NitroPT]

You only need to raise the front end off the ground and hand turn the wheel. If you hear a constant pad to rotor contact with no oscillation noise the rotor is withing likely within operating spec' or not warped. If it rubs in the same clocking position as say looking at the valve stem for reference then you may have a rotor that needs to be machined or at least removed and checked. I would either machine both front rotors or just buy new ones. But that me.

A bad caliper in most cases sticks,or has stiction but not locking the caliper piston itself which generally means the main body was contaminated with water.

[Handy_Cruiser]

Nitro makes a good point. And there's no reason not to do what he says first. I likely would before I pull the wheel. But if me with my fairly new aftermarket brake components similar to yours, I'd go ahead the pull the wheel so I can see what's going on. Good quality drilled and slotted rotors ain't cheap.

This spring when my sweetie and I went for a ride, my right front brake was sticking. I found that the rubber dust cover around the caliper's Bakelite piston was halfway out. The cover has a lip that fits in a grove in the caliper and is held in by the piston. With part of that lip pulled out, it was causing the piston to seize and not retract after braking. I removed the caliper, pulled the piston, clean it all up and put it back together correctly. It's worked perfectly ever since. I suspect that letting the car sit up several months during the winter caused the rubber dust cover to stick to the Bakelite piston and pull out during first use.

My point is that new good quality rotors don't usually warp for no reason and usually don't warp just because they got splashed with water. The rotor may be warped, but chances are something else is also going on.

[JoeX]

You will feel a warped rotor in the steering wheel from a little shake to much more a you push on the brakes, and as you come to a stop you will feel a pulse in the stopping of the vehicle. If its a light grinding you hear check to make sure the backing plate is not rubbing the rotor and make sure the caliper slide pin/ retaining bolts are well lubed and move freely.
Last if there are stainless wear plates at each end of the brake pad make sure they do not rub the rotor. this is caused by pads that fit to tight and do not easily slide in and out as brakes are applied.

[soonercruiser]

Thanks all, for the hints.
If you look at my OP, you see that I had disassembled and inspected everything.
(Except for making sure that those retaining pins move in & out freely)

The warped rotor thought was my last resort.
Although, since I am not feeling it in the steering wheel, I will check the rear brake on that side.....as I am hearing "front", but maybe.....

[soonercruiser]

So, after a well-deserved nap this fine Sunday afternoon, I disassembled both driver's side brakes.
I double checked all the pads, pistons closing, push pins free, lubricated, etc! Everything!
For fun, I rotated the rotor 180 degrees on the hub when I reassembled.
Took her for a drive....

NADA! The sound may even be a little worse.
So, I guess I will disassemble again and take the disk/rotor to the brake shop tomorrow.


Then if I still have the noise, I will make the trip to my fav dealer.

BTW...is it normal to be able to wiggle the hub back and forth a little???