Bent Wheels

[robinjoe]

I got the wheel back while my car is driving on the donut spare. It doesn't look bad. I'm thinking I'll put it back on the car, and if it holds air I'll leave it there until I can find a used wheel through a junk yard or something.

I'm still considering getting a whole new set of 17 X 8 or 17 X 7.5 wheels and then putting Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires on them, but that's still a lot of money.

4 Wheels X $230 = $920
4 Tires X $200 = $800
Total = $1,720

It's still cheaper than the two rims and 2 tires originaly proposed, but it's a lot of money by my standards.

[Jeff V]

Here's a chrome 17" OEM on ebay for $275...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tego ry=43957

[robinjoe]

Thanks to everyone for the input. I've decided to get a new set of rims and tires from Sears.

Wheels: 17 X 7 WHL AR606 http://tinyurl.com/587vq
Sears recommended the Sumitomo HTR+ $120
But I'm considering the Continental ContiExtremeContact instead

Then I'll sell my two good rims on line.

[MichaelDay]

Looks like a good choice. I think you will be happier with the wider wheel.

[Hot Wheels]

I see that you have discovered one of the best kept secrets - Sears has the lowest prices on CHROME wheels with many styles to choose from for under $600 a set. Some of them are even on sale this week for $520 (their SSC brand)! I can't make up my mind between the Casino, Aero, Fusion, or Type SR. I'm leaning toward the Casino Chrome style.

[bruent]

I got my whole set, tires wheels, mounting, balancing, lugs and center caps for $1400.00. They are Motegi DPKs 18" and Capitol Negotiator 235/40/18 tires. Wheels were about $500.00 for 4 and they are 18's, I would think 17's would be even less. I will say I could tell the change in the way it cornered just by having the wider tires, even before lowering. After lowering the car handles like a slot car, alot more fun to drive. Good Luck
Bruce

[robinjoe]

New wheels and tires were installed yesterday. When they gave us the car back the Sears mechanic asked me if the car was making a thunking sound when I brought it in. It wasn't.

He told me it was probably just a little dirt on the brakes and that it would go away. I asked him to take it back in and clean it up to make it stop. He did, but the clunking was still there.

He took it back in and cleaned the rotors and adjusted the hand brake. The clunking has been greatly reduced, but is still troublesome.

The clunking only happens when I'm braking, and slows as the car slows. Seems to happen with each tire revolution. Any clue as to what might be causing this? Is it safe to do as the mechanic suggested, and just drive it until it goes away?

I'm thinking of bringing it in to another shop to get a second opinion.

[MichaelDay]

There is very little clearance between the wheel and the brake. If the offset of the wheel is wrong you could have a rubbing there. If the caliper is almost touching, you might get a little rubbing when you apply the brakes. Just a thought.

[2step]

Like MichaelDay said, one or more of the wheel spokes may be contacting the brake caliper. If you can tell what wheel is making the noise you could take it off to visually inspect the back of the wheel and the caliper for signs of rubbing. If you're lucky, you may even be able to inspect the caliper with the wheel still mounted and find a place where bright metal showes up from the rubbing.
A bit of grinding or filing may be all you need or perhaps a spacer on the hub.
In any case, get a little dirty and give yourself the pleasure of solving this issue.

I just re-read your original post. Rotors, spindles, wheels and such can be bent by impacts such as potholes. This can cause a pulsing noise when braking. If you have your wheel off, spin the rotor and look for runout of the rotor. If you can detect the caliper moving slightly in and out then you have a bent rotor.

[PT-ERA]

It may also be that the guy bent the rim when he installed them, though he may never admit to it. I would check the inside for clearances.