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Did you know that in Henry's Ford day automotive varnishes were applied by brush? Back then cars were available is three colors: black, black, and black.
It wasn't until the mid 1930's that dozens of new coatings were first introduced. Enamels were the new alkyd resin that made the most dramatic impact in the auto industry. In the early 1940's the first atomizing spray gun was perfected. Early spray coatings required multiple coats, and extensive sanding in-between.
In the 1950's General Motors started working with a new paint process that used an acrylic resin that could be heated after initial application to rapidly evaporate the solvents and smooth the paint to a uniform finish. There is no denying it, Americans like shiny cars, and the number one buying instinct comes from our eyes.
So in 1960 Ford realized this important point and went to work trying to create higher gloss, but failed in the durability and color department. The 1970's brought another change, the introduction of the two coat acrylic painting system, and by this time companies that supplied raw materials for automotive paint had grown by the hundreds. An array of innovative products allowed each manufacturer to pick the best products for each job.
In the late 1980' and early 1990's the government got involved and was concerned about paint content and how it affected the planet. New laws governed the amount of toxic emissions like petroleum solvent and other volatile organic compounds. To meet the challenge the paint industry developed the urethanes and polyurethanes we know of today. Unexpectedly early versions of these paint systems were damaged by common chemicals like waxes and polishes containing petroleum distillates. The industry worked feverishly to correct the problem.
Today's paint systems, mostly multi-stage clear coat systems are better than ever before, and are offered in a wide range of colors, with depth and clarity we never had before. The improvements in clear coat technology have started a distressing trend at new car dealerships. Many new car salesmen are telling their clients that the paint on their new car is maintenance free.
Nothing could be further from the truth. The clear coat is NOT impervious to environmental conditions. On the other side car dealers who preach about a paint sealant lasting for years is also misleading consumers.
Regular Washing Is Critical
This is the most important step in keeping a healthy looking finish. Choose a quality car wash shampoo, not a product designed to clean your dishes. Using dish soap will strip any protection you have on your finish.
Use the lubrication from the soap to protect against from causing swirls and scratch marks. Your wash tools are important, sheepskin or chenille mitts work great. Stay away from sea sponges and wash rags; they will harm your finish quickly.
You want minimal friction to avoid damage when working. Wash the wheels first, change buckets often and never spray chemicals on hot rotors or brakes. Use an all wheel cleaner which is similar to all purpose, let it soak in a while, scrub and rinse. For brake dust, use a detail brush to loosen it up with the cleaner.
Always start form the top and work down, use a final rinse of free flowing water, this will allow the water to run off the car and reduces drying time. I use an electric leaf blower, water blade and waffle weave micro fiber towels for final drying.
Use the Plastic Bag Test
When you are finished washing your car, get a plastic sandwich bag, put your hand in it, and gently touch and move your hand across the finish. The plastic will enhance your sense of touch 10 times or more, so you can feel every imperfection on the finish. Do you feel the bumps and rough spots? Changes are you will.
That means it is time for the clay bar. Clay is the detailers answer to removal of micro particles on the surface.
Every surface contaminant on your cars begins a bonding process, which over time if not removed will etch into the clear coat. Most people forget about clay and jump right into the polishing cleaning stage. Take a look at your pad after a few passes and see how it looks. It is black and dirty from all the pollution you did not remove. Clay will NOT remove any paint, like abrasive polishers and cleaners. For instructions on clay application, go to www.perfectautofinish.com and see "detailing tips".
Paint Cleaners for Final Application
Once you remove surface contaminants with the clay, next step should be quality paint cleaner.
Some paint cleaners have polish in it which will add depth and luster back into the finish. While clay removes surface contaminants, cleaners and compounds remove defects IN the finish.
Minor surface blemishes and scratches are ideal for paint cleaners. Always work in small section, and remove as you work. Don't allow them to dry, they are hard to remove. A pure polish may or may not be necessary after this step. To test try a section with a pure polish, if you see a difference proceed. If not, don't waste your time.
Paint Sealants Outlast Wax Six Times Longer
All the experts agree that a synthetic polymer sealant offers the best sacrificial barrier on your finish. Paint technology is constantly changing, so why use products that are as old as the Model T?
Wax has been around for 100 years, our finishes have evolved to a higher quality standard, so why not use that same technology to protect your car? Old habits are hard to change. I recommend using a sealant twice a year, along with a fresh up (like a poly spray) in between sealant treatments.
Micro Fiber or Bust
If I get one point across in my detailing clinics that I hold in the Chicago area, it is to try a micro fiber towel.
99.99 percent of the people that try one for the first time come back wanting more. Most of them are amazed how well they work and wonder how they never tried them before. For anyone that is interested, I will mail you a tech data sheet on them. But the proof is in trying them.
Every square inch of the micro fiber has 90,000 small fibers, each one hundred times thinner than a strand of hair. Plus, each fiber can absorb seven times its own weight, making it the ideal towel for glass, polish, wax, sealant and quick detail. Try it you'll like it!!
You can ask Gary any questions or learn more in The Detail Shop section of our Forums here.
Visit Gary's website at www.perfectautofinish.com for more.
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