Head Gasket: Leave Cams On?

[mtyson]

Is there a way to remove the head to do the gasket without taking the cams and their sprockets off?

Sorry if this is an obvious non-starter, I haven't got into it yet, just a theoretical question at this moment.

[SpaceMouse]

Looks like the studs sit pretty close to being below the camshafts:


Getting a socket in there to remove / retorque them could be, uh, challenging.

[Handy_Cruiser]

Originally Posted by mtyson

Is there a way to remove the head to do the gasket without taking the cams and their sprockets off?

Sorry if this is an obvious non-starter, I haven't got into it yet, just a theoretical question at this moment.

Removing the camshafts is going to make the job a whole lot easier. Plus, if you get a head gasket set, it will likely come with new cam seals and you will want to use those.

I also recommend that while the head is off, you send it to an automotive machine shop and have it checked out and rebuilt. This will help assure the head is not warped, not cracked and will assure the valves seal well for many miles to come. The cost of this is usually around $100 where I live and it's well worth it, especially after a blown head gasket situation where the engine has overheated.

[rsrocket1]

You do need to remove the sprockets. Othewise you can't remove the plastic rear timing belt cover. The head bolts are right below the camshafts so you must also remove them. To properly torque the head bolts, you are supposed to torque them to 50/60 ft-lbs (Gen1/Gen2) then tighten them an additional 90 degrees. That would be very difficult or impossible with a universal socket joint.

Removing the sprockets is pretty easy. Use a camshaft holder like this:
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...l-cam-adjuster



It holds the sprockets while you use a breaker bar to loosen the bolt or a torque wrench to tighten it back on (never an impact wrench) on the sprockets. Be sure they are oriented properly with the alignment pin and the correct side of the sprocket (labeled 2.4L) is facing you when you reinstall it.

You then remove all the bolts that hold the sprocket holders + 1 on the front driver's side and they all come off easily. Best to keep the bolts with the guides, label each guide and put them back in exactly in their original place. Also label the intake and exhaust camshafts (or you can just label them "front" and "rear"). Be sure to torque the bolts properly and don't over torque them.

Removing the camshafts and reinstalling them is one of the easier parts of a PT Head Gasket job.

[mtyson]

Thanks guys.

I am at the point of removing the bolts from the head to the block. The bolts seem to be stuck. Each bolt moved slightly, like a half a MM, but now I can't get them to budge.

I don't want to break one off in there.

I'm surprised, because I thought with all the oil in here it wouldn't be stuck.

Do I need to use a breaker bar?

(Don't want to break a bolt!)

LMK if this is better as a separate thread.

[mtyson]

I went ahead and made this a new post, thank you for the tips on the cams!