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Oil Filter Location

 
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 21 May 2018, 02:02 pm
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by capevape View Post
Perfect! That leads to my next question. Is there a preferred 5W-30 I should buy?
I prefer the only full 100% chemical synthetic recommended warranted 25,000 mile/1 year turbo 5w-30 engine oil in the world https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulle...pdf?zo=1181889 .

Last edited by Gold2006; 21 May 2018 at 02:36 pm.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 22 May 2018, 08:06 pm
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Mobil 1 has a warranted 20,000 mile/1 year oil and a filter for 20,000 for 1 year also
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 22 May 2018, 09:20 pm
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

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Originally Posted by chromer don View Post
Mobil 1 has a warranted 20,000 mile/1 year oil and a filter for 20,000 for 1 year also
Yep, that is why I call them Mobil 2 as that would be my second choice. AMSOIL has proven their 25,000 mile oil for 45 years now without a single proven oil related failure. Clearly the best.
AMSOIL has a warranted 1 year 25,000 mile oil filter to match their oil.
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Last edited by Gold2006; 23 May 2018 at 07:51 pm.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 26 May 2018, 07:49 am
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Are some people seriously only changing their oil once a year?
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Old 26 May 2018, 09:21 am
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by capevape View Post
Are some people seriously only changing their oil once a year?
That's why I don't use a full synthetic oil, I could not force myself to leave the oil in that long.

I change it every 3,000 miles, and use Castrol High-Mileage.
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Old 26 May 2018, 11:51 am
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

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Originally Posted by capevape View Post
Are some people seriously only changing their oil once a year?
I do for my car, motorhome, generator, boat, motorcycle, and 2 UTVs but only with AMSOIL. AMSOIL's proven it for 45 years, millions of customers driving billions of miles have proven it, and I've proven it with used oil analysis. It came back that the oil was good for continued use after 1 year. If I had to change oil and filters every 3,000 miles/3 months, I wouldn't have time or money to enjoy them.
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Last edited by Gold2006; 26 May 2018 at 12:54 pm.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 28 May 2018, 02:32 am
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

compression ratio is the difference in the volume of the cylinder when the piston is at Bottom Dead Center (BDC) vs when it is at Top Dead Center (TDC).

This is expressed as a ratio such as 10:1 (read 10 to 1), or 8.5:1 (eight and a half to one). for 10:1 the meaning is that the space at TDC is 10 times smaller than when at BDC.

this ratio is what requires high octane, as high compression squeezes the air/fuel mixture, and by physics, compressed gas heats up, and this compression in the engine can (and will) heat up enough to ignite the air/fuel mixture without the use of a spark plug (this is known as dieseling). Diesel engines use a Glow Plug as a hot spot to increase the temp when cold, but when the engine is warm it runs off of compression ignition alone. (Mazda is useing this principle in their new engines for increased efficiency google it if you are interested)

This is why when you see "HIGH COMPRESSION RACE ENGINE" it usually requires premium fuel. The higher octane rating resists this self ignition from the high compression.

TURBO engines usually run a lower ratio, but still require premium. This is the result of Boost. The compression ratio of an engine is calculated with normal atmospheric pressure 14.7PSI. So when you compress that 10 times over, you get more pressure. Well Turbo engines don't have atmospheric pressure they have boost, which in the case of a stock turbo is 12PSI, which added to the atmospheric pressure is about ~27PSI in the cylinder which is more dense air than atmospheric air as more molecules of air are needed to exert that pressure. So we have roughly double the air in the same space, and when you compress that 10 times, you blow up. It is just too much pressure, so instead you lower the compression ratio, drop it down to 8:1 and the total pressure is lower, and thus your engine can run without blowing up.

Using a calculator site, I found what the effective compression ratio of an engine with 10:1 vs 8:1 is with 12PSI of boost.
10:1 + 12PSI boost = ~18:1 (note diesel engines have 15:1+ ratios)
8:1 + 12PSI boost = ~14.5:1

So this is why boosted engines have lower compression ratios but still require premium fuel, because they run such high effective compression ratios.

Now as a disclaimer: This is theoretical compression ratios with perfect 100% cylinders filled, air flow into and out of cylinders is not perfect and does not always work at 100%. so you may run 10:1, but the cylinder only fills enough to run at 8:1 because not enough air enters the engine, boost is when the cylinder only runs at more than 100%.
If you run low boost and the cylinder only fills to 14.7psi it is actually called turbonormalizing. this is how old planes used to work, they would make huge power at sea level but thinner air made less power, so adding a turbo just brought them back to sea level air density.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 28 May 2018, 02:33 am
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Also I run Mobile 1 15k mile full synthetic for about 5k miles before changing it, with the matching filter.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 28 May 2018, 10:33 am
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Maybe some members need to get up to date on the compression ration of engines vs what fuel octane to use...although for the purpose of generality having some basic information it is incomplete now and what I would describe old school and outdated information! I did read a casual mention other high compression engines which maybe should have been included more in the informational response as they will be seen more in the future..
The compression calculators are not the best to use for accuracy because of variable in the mechanical parts of engine and should only be a guideline.
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Last edited by NitroPT; 28 May 2018 at 10:46 am.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 28 May 2018, 10:53 am
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by Macgyverman1123 View Post
This is a great way to start a war on any automotive forum, so I'll throw in my vote.
yup...but some of us use oil analysis as our guide and more ....shall we say empirical data and have for years and get a laugh when we read some of the beliefs and Myths and inaccurate information regarding the choice and how and when to change filters and motor oil.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/
The buck stops here so to say if you want the TRUTH about oils in or other fluids your engine.

But as we all know you can find the answer you want to read if you look long and hard enough on the internet!
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