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BIG 3 -

 
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 26 Nov 2011, 11:07 pm
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Default Re: BIG 3 -

maybe this weekend I'll go and look/ask my local electrical supply store what the cost might be.

so lowpt
if I understand this correctly you still have teh stock wire going from the alternator to where ever and have added a 0guage wire to go from the alternator straight to teh battery correct?
did you hook this to the negative or the positive side?

to start things off probably just do the battery cables and then go backa nd do the other at a latter date.

what wold be a rough estimate for the battery cables.
negative a foot (1') or would it be better to go a foot and half (1.5')??

positive...three feet (3')??....four feet (4')??....five feet(5')???

and when I get around to it how much should I get for the alternator to wherever cable?
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 28 Nov 2011, 05:52 pm
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Default Re: BIG 3 -

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowpt View Post
What device am I protecting? The wire I installed is secondary. The factory wire is still there. The fuse is there purely in case the wire get nicked and shorts out, so my car doesn't burn down. Besides, factory alternator wires are not fused at all.
The alternator itself. Think about what is going on in the alternator with its diode bridge/rectifier. It's designed to produce less than half of what your fuse is rated for. If that puppy goes straight to ground for even a few seconds it is going to be trying to produce full capacity. It's like a freaking arc-welder until something gives or the engine shuts down. Path of least resistance is through your heavy wire. The lighter factory one barely comes into play.
There is a fuse in the system, by the way. The small wire that comes off the alternator goes to the fusebox. It is supposed to protect the alternator from overload, but I still don't trust altering that system without fusing the new wire.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 28 Nov 2011, 06:13 pm
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Default Re: BIG 3 -

Quote:
Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis View Post
The alternator itself. Think about what is going on in the alternator with its diode bridge/rectifier. It's designed to produce less than half of what your fuse is rated for. If that puppy goes straight to ground for even a few seconds it is going to be trying to produce full capacity. It's like a freaking arc-welder until something gives or the engine shuts down. Path of least resistance is through your heavy wire. The lighter factory one barely comes into play.
There is a fuse in the system, by the way. The small wire that comes off the alternator goes to the fusebox. It is supposed to protect the alternator from overload, but I still don't trust altering that system without fusing the new wire.
It is fused for the rating of the wire. The possibility of it touching bare metal is the reason it is fused. You said it yourself, if it touches metal it will be similar to a welder, drawing lots of amps and creating lots of heat. The fuse won't last seconds if this happens. I know the alternator doesn't put out what the wire or fuse will carry. I do however, want the least amount of resistance to carry the current. This is the reason for the things I have done. So, if I have the large gauge wire fused in case of direct short and the factory wire is fused as you say then I should be good, correct?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02 Mar 2012, 09:51 pm
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Default Re: BIG 3 -

If you are still around, sorry about not replying, I'm not in here unless I have a question and didn't realize you had replied. I wasn't being deliberately rude.
I still maintain that if you fuse the alternator end of this cable, it should be fused to the capacity of the alternator or the wire, whichever is less.
This is also probably the only wire in the car that logic says ahould be fused at both ends. Imagine the wire rubs against something and shorts to the car body or the engine block. The fuse at the alternator blows. The wire is still connected to the battery at the other end, which is now direct shorting to ground. This is the only wire I can think of (except maybe one going to a capacitor but that would discharge in a hurry) that has a source at both ends. When charging, the alternator is a source, but if the alternator is removed, the battery becomes a source, which does not stop until it is depleted, shutting the car off does nothing to stop it. Can you say fire hazard?
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03 Mar 2012, 10:26 pm
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Default Re: BIG 3 -

I am still around. I have the wire fused close to the battery in case of short. As you stated the alt. is protected. Not only from the fuse you mentioned but also monitored by the pcm. I feel good about the way this is done. I see what you are trying to say, but feel it is overkill. I guess we will never see eye to eye on the better way to do this and should just agree to disagree.
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