ECM issues...I think...

[Grasshopper77]

Originally Posted by Pacho

I will do so. Can you tell me how you removed the "C" clamps on the hoses

Thanks...

What C-claps are you referring too? The hose comes as a complete assembly (tube, upper and lower boots). They connect via 2 hose clamps (flat head or i think 5/16 socket). There is also another hose that connects to the lower boot. Just pull the breather box out, remove the hose clamp on the turbo end. Then attach the new hose, clamp to turbo, install breather box and connect top end to breather box via another hose clamp. The amazon hose comes with new clamps.

[Pacho]

Originally Posted by Grasshopper77

What C-claps are you referring too? The hose comes as a complete assembly (tube, upper and lower boots). They connect via 2 hose clamps (flat head or i think 5/16 socket). There is also another hose that connects to the lower boot. Just pull the breather box out, remove the hose clamp on the turbo end. Then attach the new hose, clamp to turbo, install breather box and connect top end to breather box via another hose clamp. The amazon hose comes with new clamps.

There are several smaller hoses connected to the main hose...I already know how to remove them. Thanks 😊

[Pacho]

Well good news it was NOT the ECM. The culprit was the positive battery cable terminal end connector where the cable attaches to the connector. I decided to change it because it was the lead type and it was all closed up and wouldn't tighten anymore. So when I was going to disconnect the back part I realized that it was really loose and that is probably why I was getting all those weird actions on the gauges and why it was dying for no apparent reason. I also replaced the torn cold side air turbo hose with no trouble at all. I figured out that those were not "C" clips but shoulders/stops for the connector (see pic)

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7627991&type=3



Drove it to work and back today with no issues at all.

Thanks for all of your help

[ptcruisersteve]

Originally Posted by myckee

While it is good you found the broken hose on your car and ordered a replacement, it would appear that it is a secondary problem to your main problem, which seems to be electrical.

If your battery tested good, make sure your battery terminals are clean and in good condition and making a proper connection to the battery. As well, check and clean the ground connections on the inside of the driver fender. You probably have to remove the air box to get to it. Clean all of those connections. Check the connections on the starter. Remove them and clean the eyelets and then reinstall.

That is not to say that your PCM is not the problem, but it could very well be poor connections on the battery or on the ground wires, or on the starter. Hopefully it is just a simple case of poor electrical connections.

This is important to check all connections coming from the battery when you are having electrical problems.

[jamesz71]

Originally Posted by Handy_Cruiser

This does seem a little more common on 2005 models than other years. And if reports on this forum are a good sampling group, I'd guess that 75% of the folks that report what you are reporting did indeed need a PCM. Others had bad batteries with periodic low voltage, bad TIPM's (2006 and newer), damaged wiring harness, bad or loose gauge clusters, or a bad electrical component that would usually throw a code.

Have you tried connecting an OBDII code reader to your PT? Sometimes, folks with failing PCM's will report that the code reader cannot make contact even thought the car tends to somewhat function like yours. While not definitive, it would be one more thing that might help confirm it is truly the PCM.

New Question on old thread! I have 06 GT with 30K original miles. Last year, car started having issue like what is described here.
- Always at low power maneuvering such as parking lots
- All advisory lights in panel flash on & off. All warning alarms go off. Then dash goes dark, all gauges turn off, fuel pegs to empty, and engine dies. Engine will restart, but often panel lights remain off until it sits.
- When this fire drill is happening, if I can get the car up to highway speed quick enough, the car will not die and alarms stop. Lights often remain on or all off until a couple go ignition cycles. These problems have never happened at speeds over 20MPH.
- Two good shops have told me that there are no codes and they cannot find the problem. It is very hard to duplicate the scenario consistently. Frustrating.