Replacing Control Arms. Nut Broke loose. Help!

[2004PlatinumTurbo]

I need to replace my control arm bushings and last time we tackled this the nut inside of the frame broke loose. What would be the best way to tackle this. Im asumming either cutting the floor or the frame. Has anyone had this problem before?

[randyincctx]

Here you go: http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...shing-r-r.html

[Busted_PT]

Originally Posted by 2004PlatinumTurbo

I need to replace my control arm bushings and last time we tackled this the nut inside of the frame broke loose. What would be the best way to tackle this. Im asumming either cutting the floor or the frame. Has anyone had this problem before?

There are some other people who posted about going through the floor to access the nut. Also I just posted on a knew bushing that will last a long time more than the stock one. Could be the last on she will ever need.

[Schleprock]

I'm going through this and have gained some "experience" and pictures ... I'm new at this though. Here's my stuff.

I'll start by saying that if you are going to remove the rear vertical control arm bolt, it might be best to start with cutting out the access hole in the floor and spray the heck out of the threads with penetrating fluid 1st. I didn't, and I snapped a 1/2" socket wrench and broke the nut loose from the clip like a lot of other people here.

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...1&d=1403228003

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...1&d=1403228003

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...1&d=1403228003

Cutting the hole with the 2-3/4" hole saw was actually pretty simple.. just don't go deep. The metal is pretty thin here, and if you go to deep you'll hit the underlying structure a little bit. Nothing serious because it's about the same shape, but you can also damage the threads to the bolt. I also found it was helpful to leave the guide bit out long when starting due to the angle(see the skip marks trailing off in the picture) and then backing it off after getting it started.
I ended up cutting the bolt and buying a replacement. The picture shows the upper half of the bolt

[Jaimez]

Originally Posted by Schleprock

I'm going through this and have gained some "experience" and pictures ... I'm new at this though. Here's my stuff.

I'll start by saying that if you are going to remove the rear vertical control arm bolt, it might be best to start with cutting out the access hole in the floor and spray the heck out of the threads with penetrating fluid 1st. I didn't, and I snapped a 1/2" socket wrench and broke the nut loose from the clip like a lot of other people here.

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...1&d=1403228003

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...1&d=1403228003

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...1&d=1403228003

Cutting the hole with the 2-3/4" hole saw was actually pretty simple.. just don't go deep. The metal is pretty thin here, and if you go to deep you'll hit the underlying structure a little bit. Nothing serious because it's about the same shape, but you can also damage the threads to the bolt. I also found it was helpful to leave the guide bit out long when starting due to the angle(see the skip marks trailing off in the picture) and then backing it off after getting it started.
I ended up cutting the bolt and buying a replacement. The picture shows the upper half of the bolt

Were and how did you cut the bolt? Does it slide right out of the cage after cutting? I have drilled a hole and sprayed the crap out of it. I have even took a hammer and crowbar to the bolt to see if it would brake loose.

[JoeX]

Originally Posted by Jaimez

Were and how did you cut the bolt? Does it slide right out of the cage after cutting? I have drilled a hole and sprayed the crap out of it. I have even took a hammer and crowbar to the bolt to see if it would brake loose.

OH pain and misery! What have I done to deserve this?
I don't think penetrant is going to help loosen that that nut.
I had one do the same to me and if I had to do it again I would use a small torch to heat the nut. I have a acylene turbo torch with a small tip, it would heat the nut but it doesn't put out a large flame. Then you would have to grab the nut with channel locks or have the nut tack welded on two sides. But since you have all the penetrant in there now ???

If you break the bolt you will not have a choice but to cut it
I end up cuting mine off from below, it was no fun and over heated my sawzall
probably ruined it. If you don't cut it at the very top, if there is room) it will not let the lca come out.