Your Suspension Recomendations

[Macgyverman1123]

With the new incoming 'RonaBucks(tm) from the Fejrul Gubmint, I finally have time and cash to replace the suspension under my Cruiser. I know I need new struts and control arms, struts and springs in the back, and I just discovered the CV axle boots are torn and leaking grease. That being said, I'm just tie rods and bushings away from a whole new suspension under the car. I understand that this will be an expensive and extremely difficult job, and I'd love to get y'alls recommendations on good parts to use, and, (Perhaps more importantly), bad parts not to use.

[rcktpwrd]

I like the Moog Problem Solver suspension parts. The front end in the Cruiser isn't too bad to rebuild.

I would also replace the Watts linkage and bell crank in the rear. That really tightened up the suspension in mine.

[Macgyverman1123]

I'm planning on replacing the watts link and lateral arms, they're a bit loose. I know I need new rear shocks and bushings, so I'm gonna throw two new springs at it and just be completely done with it. From what I understand, with the shocks off, the rear coil springs just come right out?

[rcktpwrd]

Originally Posted by Macgyverman1123

I'm planning on replacing the watts link and lateral arms, they're a bit loose. I know I need new rear shocks and bushings, so I'm gonna throw two new springs at it and just be completely done with it. From what I understand, with the shocks off, the rear coil springs just come right out?

Pretty much, once the shocks are disconnected you can move the axle around enough that the springs come right out. The springs are almost fully extended so no chance of one shooting across the yard!


Let me know when you are going to do the work and I might be able to help you out...

[turbo1013]

hands down moog problem solver,. expensive compared to junk, but there is actual some revisions that make it last longer and better made..

items to look out for ,
i rebuilt mine 4 times over 18 years,

strut tops bearings DO NOT let them fall out, when you use spring comprossors, you unload the strut top and run the risk of them falling out, i put 2 peices of blue tape on them just in case..

have 2 extra strut tops with bearing just in case, usally cheaper then buying the berings alone btw like 20-30 bucks

have 4 axel seals, grease the axels front and back, do not nick the axel seals they leak insanely easy, like 4 for 12 bucks,

when installing the strut dont nick the axel boot,

order 4 cam adjustable strut bolts to make aligngmet super easy, like 15 bucks,

i recently came up with a great way to install the struts, as most spring compressors wont fit up in the pocket, i have 4 diffrent sets, all suck,
when the strut is out use your spring compressors to compress the strut, , use 2 ratch straps in the 1000 and above range one running inbetween the top 3 bolts and runing down each side of the strut (clamp)and down the bottom, leave ratch by where the brake caliper would go about, tighten it down so the spring compressors just lhave a spec of tension off them,
run your second ratchet strap agin threw the top betwen the top 3 bolts, but diffrent angel, run strap threw the front and back of the clamp and leave ratchet about 6 inches from srpring bottom mount, crank tight,
through a few hose clamps left and right of the center strap joining 2 rows of spring togherthe, like 6 -8 tighten them to snug with the heads aiming down so you can easily remove them when installed.., back off carefully the spring compressors adjust as needed, put compressed strut up in the pocket and get 3 nuts on loose, run 2 drift pins in the strut to knucle , loosen up the center srtap, use compressors if needed on the lower parts of the spring, pop bolts in knuckel,, remove center strap, and pull out from the top, stick a pry bar in the top tight but you can still get it out if needed,,, loosen side strap, then using the pry bay slip the strap out, remove bar, tighten top bolts,

[Macgyverman1123]

Did the rear suspension last week, went in without an issue, except that the bumper bolts aren't long enough for the Energy Suspension bumpers. Had to get some longer ones. I also didn't change the trailing arm bushings, they looked on-ish.



Tonight, I began on the front suspension. I'd say I have disassembly 60 percent done. On the passenger side, the vertical bolt from the control arm cam out ok, miraculously. I have everything out except the CV axle and the inner tie rod. The driver side is still mostly together, I'll tackle the rest tomorrow, and maybe start reassembly!!! So far, so good!!!!! Now to de-grease myself, drink a beer, and hit the sack!!! More updates to follow tomorrow!!

So far, the only major PITA looks like it'll be getting the bellows off the inner tie rod. I'll have to figure out how those stupid clamps work without destroying them...

[Macgyverman1123]

After many trials and tribulations, I am finally nearing the end of this 3 day suspension ordeal. Most of the hard stuff is done. At this point I have to do

Sway bar and links
sway bar bushings
outer tie rods
attach the brakes
wheels
refill the transmission and power steering
Crank it up!!!!!


The end is near, but I don't want to rush and mess it all up at the end. Gonna take a break, eat some dinner, do some homework, drink a beer and then try to finish up tonight or early tomorrow, so I can go get it aligned!!

I think I'm out of the woods, but not quite home free yet. Fingers crossed!!!

[Macgyverman1123]

At long last, the job is finally done!!!! This was all in all a pretty tricky one, but not the worst thing I've done on the PT (Timing belt job) and also not the worst thing I've ever done on a car (Steering rack on a chevy). Gonna take it to the alignment shop first thing in the morning, and then I'll post my final thoughts and breakdown of everything here after!

[Macgyverman1123]

Final thoughts:

It really drives so different! It's strange to have the suspension - work - after having it bad the entire time I have owned the car. very quiet, but I do hear more tire noise. Those are the next item on the docket.

Everything went well, with the exception of the aforementioned CV axle, but I macgyvered a solution with a homemade slide hammer and a vice grips. The sketchiest part of the job was when my sketchy harbor freight jack blew up.

The vertical bolts came out and went in without issue. Maybe someone already welded them in the past, or I just got lucky. most of the stuff I pulled off the front and rear was all 191,000 miles old.

The reason the CV axle got stuck (And probably why it failed too) was that it was a cheap aftermarket one that is round, instead of triangular where it goes into the trans, so I couldn't get a pry bar inside there. Passenger side was OEM, and came out in literally 3 seconds.

I got the car aligned after at a local shop with a laser alignment machine. I actually had it pretty close! Getting the new control arms into the steering knuckle was actually really easy for me, unlike other members I've read about. I just put a jack under the control arm, and applied a little pressure and it went right in. As long as you align the camber bolt beforehand, you'll be all set.

The worst part for me was getting the sway bar end links on. Talk about a PITA!!!! I suspect the sway bar may be slightly bent from running for years with only 1 bushing (I later discovered) and with bad end links. We shall see. I can get a brand new one from Chrysler for about $75, so if it is bent, that's not the end of the world.



As usual, i raise a glass to RcktPwrd for letting me bug him over text about 11,000 times whenever I'm doing a car project, or whenever the Canes are playing.
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